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Carefully re-position the clean P-trap, ensuring any new or existing washers are properly seated. Screw the slip nuts back on by hand first to prevent cross-threading. Once they are hand-tight, use the channel-lock pliers to give them a final quarter to half-turn. Do not over-tighten, as this can crack the plastic nuts and cause leaks. Once reassembled, turn the hot water tap on and let it run for a few minutes to test the drainage and check for any leaks at the connections you tightened. Place a dry paper towel under the trap to easily spot any small drips.

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Step 1

⏱ 2 min
Step 1 preview

Prepare Workspace and Safety

Begin by clearing everything out from the cabinet under your kitchen sink to give yourself ample room to work. Lay down several old towels to protect the cabinet base from water spills. Place a bucket directly under the P-trap (the U-shaped section of pipe) to catch water and debris. For your safety, put on a pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes from splashes and a pair of waterproof gloves.

Step 2

⏱ 2 min
Step 2 preview

Attempt a Natural Degreasing Flush

For a mild grease clog, this non-invasive method can work. Boil a large pot of water. Pour about half of it slowly down the drain to start melting the grease. Immediately follow with a half-cup of baking soda and a mixture of one cup of white vinegar and one cup of hot water. You'll hear fizzing as the reaction occurs. Place a drain plug over the opening and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Finally, flush the drain with the remaining boiling water. Note: Be cautious with boiling water if you have PVC pipes; very hot tap water is a safer alternative.

Step 3

⏱ 2 min
Step 3 preview

Disassemble and Clean the P-Trap

If the flush fails, the clog is likely lodged in the P-trap. Confirm your bucket is in position. The P-trap is held by two large slip nuts. Grip one nut with channel-lock pliers or an adjustable wrench and turn it counter-clockwise to loosen. A slight turn is usually enough to then unscrew it by hand. Repeat for the other nut. Gently lower the trap and empty its contents into the bucket. Take the trap to another sink or use a hose outside to clean it thoroughly with a bottle brush and hot, soapy water. Scrape out all grease and grime.

Step 4

⏱ 2 min
Step 4 preview

Snake the Drain Line

With the P-trap removed, you have direct access to the drain line entering the wall (the trap arm). If you suspect the clog is further down, this is your chance to clear it. Insert the head of a small drain snake (or hand auger) into the pipe. Push the cable in until you feel resistance, which is likely the clog. Tighten the locking screw on the auger's handle and begin turning the crank clockwise while applying gentle forward pressure. You'll feel the snake working its way through the grease. Once the resistance lessens, you have likely broken through. Retract the snake, wiping the cable with a rag as you pull it out to minimize mess.

Step 5

⏱ 2 min

Reassemble and Leak Test

Carefully re-position the clean P-trap, ensuring any new or existing washers are properly seated.Screw the slip nuts back on by hand first to prevent cross-threading.Once they are hand-tight, use the channel-lock pliers to give them a final quarter to half-turn.Do not over-tighten, as this can crack the plastic nuts and cause leaks.Once reassembled, turn the hot water tap on and let it run for a few minutes to test the drainage and check for any leaks at the connections you tightened.Place a dry paper towel under the trap to easily spot any small drips.

Step 5/5

Reassemble and Leak Test2 min