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Stesso

Final Sanding, Cleaning, and Priming

1:55
30:46
34.8K views

At 1:55 in

Learning Old School NASCAR Bodywork: My First Time Using Bondo With Lessons From an "Old Timer"

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What happens here

Begin the final sanding process, starting with 180-grit sandpaper to smooth the areas where body filler was applied. Then, progress to 320-grit sandpaper for a finer finish. This two-stage sanding ensures all remaining imperfections are removed and the surface is perfectly smooth. Afterwards, wipe down the entire car with a wax and grease remover using shop towels to eliminate any dust, oils, or residues. Finally, apply a coat of flat black epoxy primer (e.g., PPG Shopline) to the entire body. This primer provides a uniform, durable base and indicates any remaining imperfections before the final wrap is applied. Ensure roof rails are drilled out for later installation and paint the underside of the trunk lid with grey chassis paint for a clean finish.

Goal: Achieve a smooth, primed surface ready for vinyl wrapping.

Tools and materials

  • 180-Grit Sandpaper — Initial smoothing of body filler
  • 320-Grit Sandpaper — Fine sanding for a smooth finish
  • Paint Sprayer — Applying epoxy primer
  • Respirator — Protection during priming
  • Shop Towels — Wiping down the car surface
  • Flat Black Epoxy Primer PPG Shopline — Providing a durable and uniform base for the wrap
  • Grey Chassis Paint SEM Multimax — Painting the underside of the trunk lid
  • Wax and Grease Remover — Cleaning the car surface before priming

What they say

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pretty much just waiting for it to get to the dry enough to where I could sand it try to spread it as nice as I can to make the sanding easier but you know sometimes on some weird stuff here it just doesn't work so a little more time with the same table now I gotta prep these seams in the front here I already sanded off all the surface rust of the main surface and this is what the fabulous process of de-rustifying all that sheet metal looked like but now I'm digging out the surface rust in the seams you can kind of see they're brownish and dark in there same thing the same 80 grit pad I was told to turn it sideways and kind of let it ride around in there to get that brown stuff out because the seams on these cars like to lift out over time I'm sure you've seen that if you've been up close to basically any old stock car uh there's there's always seams lifting or splitting somewhere because they just wobble around so much so we're doing what we can to prevent that from happening now later in the video you'll see Joey Britt the guy we met who owns the old stavola brothers shop who was a body guy

Auto-generated from the video audio.