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Turn on Water and Check for Leaks — Test for Leaks and Finalize

Intermediate6 hours

Part of project

How to Replace a Deck-Mount Garden Tub Faucet · Step 8 of 8

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In this video

Slowly turn on the shut-off valves for both hot and cold water by turning the handles to the left (counter-clockwise). Turn on the faucet and let the water run. Close the pop-up drain to fill the sink partially, then release it to test the drain connection under a full flow. Use a flashlight to carefully inspect all new plumbing connections, including the supply lines and the entire P-trap assembly, for any drips or leaks.

Goal: Test for leaks.

Used in this video

  • Flashlight_Type (brand: N/A)To visually inspect all plumbing connections for any signs of water leaks.
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FAQs

How challenging is replacing a deck-mount garden tub faucet for someone with limited plumbing experience, and why does it take up to 6 hours?

This project is rated intermediate primarily due to the often tight and awkward access under the tub deck, and the potential for seized or corroded plumbing components. The 6-hour estimate accounts for troubleshooting, the slow process of working in confined spaces, and thorough leak testing to ensure a secure installation.

Why are multiple types of wrenches listed, especially two basin wrenches, and are they all essential for this project?

Multiple wrenches, including two basin wrenches (telescoping and standard), are highly recommended. This ensures you have the correct tool to reach and properly grip various nut sizes and angles, especially the difficult-to-access mounting nuts under the tub deck. Having both types of basin wrenches can be crucial for different space constraints.

What are the most critical steps to prevent leaks and potential water damage during and after this faucet replacement?

The most critical steps include completely shutting off the main water supply before starting and confirming no water is flowing. When installing, use Teflon tape on all threaded pipe connections (not on compression fittings unless specified) and tighten all nuts firmly but without overtightening. After installation, test for leaks thoroughly over several hours, checking all connections for drips.

What should I do if the old faucet nuts or supply lines are seized and won't loosen, or if I encounter heavy corrosion?

If parts are seized, apply penetrating oil like KROIL generously and let it sit for at least 15-30 minutes to work. Use firm, steady pressure with your basin wrench or adjustable wrench. If components are severely corroded or refuse to budge, you may need to carefully cut them away using a hacksaw, taking extreme caution to avoid damaging the tub or surrounding plumbing.

Transcript
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Once those two are complete, we're going to open up our shutoff valves on both. Again, the shutoff valves are going to turn it to the left. Repeat that on the hot side and then we can go ahead and open up our faucet and test for leaks. What I do is I open up the hot and cold and let them run simultaneously. I'll even close the pop-up drain and fill up the sink halfway. Let the water drain out to test your drain. Take a flashlight and just inspect all your joints, your fittings and everything you connected by hand with your flashlight and make sure you have no leaks and you're good to go.

Auto-generated transcript. May contain errors.