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Tighten the Assembly — Remove the Drain Flange

Beginner5 hours

Part of project

How to Replace a Pop-up Bathtub Drain and Overflow Assembly · Step 2 of 8

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In this video

To fully tighten the assembly, you must hold the flange stationary from above while tightening the locknut from below. Insert a drain key into the crossbars of the new flange. Use a pair of large channel-lock pliers to hold the drain key handle, preventing the flange from rotating. While holding the top steady, go underneath and use your preferred tool (like the large socket and wrench) to tighten the locknut until it is very snug. You will see the excess plumber's putty squeeze out from under the flange lip inside the tub.

Goal: Securely tighten the drain assembly to create a watertight seal

  • Do not overtighten, as this can crack a fiberglass or acrylic tub. Tighten until snug and the putty has squeezed out evenly.

Used in this video

  • Drain Key (brand: Generic, Tool Type: Plumbing Tools)Holding the drain flange stationary from the top during tightening.
  • Channel-Lock Pliers (brand: Generic, Pliers_Type: Channel-Lock)Holding the handle of the drain key to prevent rotation.
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FAQs

What's the most challenging part for a beginner, and how can I prepare for it?

The trickiest part for a beginner is often accessing the plumbing behind the tub, especially if space is tight or an access panel isn't readily available. Ensure you have ample lighting, like the NITECORE flashlight, and be prepared for potentially corroded or seized old components which might require extra patience and leverage from Channellock pliers.

How important is using plumber's putty, and are there alternatives for sealing the drain flange?

Plumber's putty is crucial for creating a watertight seal between the drain flange and the tub surface, effectively preventing leaks. Apply a generous, continuous bead under the flange before seating it. While silicone sealant can also be used, plumber's putty allows for easier future removal if necessary.

The project says 5 hours, but what if my old drain is severely corroded or stuck?

Heavily corroded or seized drain components can indeed extend the project time beyond the estimated 5 hours. Have penetrating oil on hand to help loosen stubborn threads and allow it to sit. You might also need a hacksaw, like the Husky Close Quarters Hacksaw, to cut away old components if they cannot be unscrewed.

Do I need to turn off my home's main water supply before starting this project?

While you are not directly working on pressurized water lines that require the main supply to be off, it's a wise safety precaution to do so. This minimizes the risk of accidental water damage if a pipe is inadvertently compromised or if you want to prevent water from inadvertently entering the tub during the process. It also helps manage any residual water in the pipes.

Transcript
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finish final tightening from up top. Here goes. All right I took the nut and screwed it on from down below it's secured in place but now I need to really tighten the flange down into it so I rigged up that kind of root goldberg set up I had with a two inch socket down below to hold the nut in place where I turn from above and then let's see what happens here. Yeah that flounder's body is really squishing out. Sounds like my nut came down underneath let me go down there and fix that. All right tighten things back up downstairs. It's pretty good down below. I guess tight enough. I'm just coming here clean out the flounder's

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