How to Replace a Mobile Home Garden Tub Faucet

Begin by shutting off the water supply to the entire mobile home. This is typically done at the main shut-off valve, often located near the water heater or where the main water line enters the home. Once off, open the garden tub faucet and another faucet in the house (like a kitchen sink) to completely drain the water lines and release any built-up pressure. Place old towels on the floor around the tub and inside the access panel area to absorb any spills. Gather all your tools and the new faucet kit so everything is within reach.

Locate the plumbing access panel. This is usually a square piece of wallboard on the wall behind the faucet handles, often inside an adjacent bedroom or linen closet. These panels may be held in place with four screws or simply be a friction-fit panel that can be pried off. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws, if present, and carefully take the panel off. If no panel exists, you must create one by using a utility knife or drywall saw to cut a hole (typically 12x12 inches) in the drywall. Put on your headlamp to get a clear view of the plumbing connections.

Working through the access panel, place a bucket underneath the faucet connections. Use channel locks or an adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts connecting the hot (red) and cold (blue) PEX supply lines to the faucet's valve bodies. Once loose, unscrew them by hand. Next, disconnect the flexible transfer hose that connects the valves to the spout. With all lines disconnected, use a basin wrench to reach up and loosen the large plastic or metal mounting nuts securing the faucet handles and spout to the tub deck. Have a helper hold the faucet pieces from the top to prevent them from falling and scratching the tub once the nuts are removed. Lift the old faucet assembly away from the tub.

After removing all the old faucet components from the tub deck, there will likely be a residue of old plumber's putty, silicone, or mineral deposits. Use a plastic putty knife to gently scrape away this old material. Be careful not to use a metal scraper, which could scratch the acrylic or fiberglass tub surface. Once the bulk of the residue is removed, use a non-abrasive bathroom cleaner and a soft rag to thoroughly clean and dry the entire mounting surface. A clean, smooth surface is essential for the new faucet to seal properly.

Unpack your new faucet kit and review the manufacturer's instructions. Some kits require a bead of plumber's putty around the base of the faucet bodies and spout, while others use pre-installed rubber gaskets. Follow the instructions for your specific model. Position the new spout and handle valves through the holes on the tub deck. From underneath, slide on any supplied rubber or metal washers and then thread on the mounting nuts by hand until they are snug. Use your basin wrench to give each nut a final quarter to half-turn to secure it firmly. Do not overtighten, as this can crack the tub or the plastic nuts.

First, connect the new transfer hose (usually included in the kit) between the hot and cold valve bodies and the inlet on the underside of the spout. Hand-tighten these connections, then snug them up with channel locks. Next, wrap the male threads of the faucet valve inlets with 3-4 wraps of Teflon tape in a clockwise direction. Connect the main hot supply line (red PEX) to the hot inlet (left side) and the cold supply line (blue PEX) to the cold inlet (right side). Hand-tighten the connection nuts and then use channel locks or an adjustable wrench to give them a final half-turn to ensure they are secure but not overtightened.

This is the most critical step. Ensure the faucet handles are in the 'off' position. Go to the main water shut-off valve and turn it back on VERY SLOWLY to allow the pipes to fill gradually and prevent water hammer. Return to the access panel with a bright flashlight and dry paper towels. Meticulously inspect every connection you made: where the hot and cold lines meet the valves, and where the transfer hose connects to the valves and spout. Dab each connection with a paper towel to check for even the smallest drips. If all connections are dry, reach over the tub and turn the hot and cold handles on, letting the water run for a minute. Re-check all connections for leaks while the water is running.

Once you are completely satisfied that there are no leaks and the faucet is functioning correctly, you can complete the project. Position the access panel cover back over the opening and secure it with its screws. If you created a new panel, you can frame it and attach it with screws for future access. Remove all of your tools, the old faucet parts, and any rags or debris from the bathroom. Give the new faucet a final wipe-down with a soft cloth to remove fingerprints.