How to Replace a Kitchen Sink Faucet

Begin by completely clearing the area under the kitchen sink. Remove all cleaning supplies, baskets, and other items to create a clear and accessible workspace. Lay down several old towels to absorb any water that will inevitably drip during the process. Place a bucket directly under the water supply connections and faucet P-trap to catch water.

Locate the two water shutoff valves under the sink, one for hot water (typically on the left) and one for cold water (typically on the right). Turn the handles clockwise until they are fully closed. If they are stiff, you may need pliers to get them started, but be gentle. Once closed, go to the top of the sink and turn the old faucet handle to the 'on' position. This will release any remaining water pressure in the lines. A small amount of water will trickle out and then stop, confirming the water supply is off.

With the bucket in position, use an adjustable wrench or basin wrench to disconnect the water supply lines. First, loosen the nuts connecting the flexible supply lines to the shutoff valves. Expect a small amount of water to drain into the bucket. Next, reach up behind the sink basin and disconnect the other end of the supply lines from the faucet's threaded tailpieces. This is where a basin wrench is invaluable due to the tight space.

From underneath the sink, use the basin wrench to loosen and remove the mounting nuts that secure the old faucet to the sink deck. These can be metal or plastic and are often corroded. If they are stuck, apply penetrating oil. Once the nuts and any washers or brackets are removed, go to the top of the sink. Gently pull the old faucet assembly straight up and out of the mounting holes. You may need to use a putty knife to gently pry it up if it's stuck down with old plumber's putty or caulk.

With the old faucet removed, thoroughly clean the sink surface around the mounting holes. Use a plastic putty knife or a non-abrasive scraper to remove any residual plumber's putty, silicone caulk, or mineral deposits. Follow up with an all-purpose cleaner and a rag or sponge to ensure the area is perfectly clean and dry. A clean surface is essential for a good seal with the new faucet.

Unpack your new faucet and identify all the parts. If your sink has three holes and the faucet only requires one, first place the gasket and then the escutcheon (deck plate) over the holes. Following the manufacturer's directions, carefully feed the faucet's water lines and threaded shank through the center hole. From underneath, slide the rubber gasket, followed by the metal washer and mounting nuts, onto the faucet's shank. Hand-tighten the nuts to secure the faucet. Check the faucet's alignment from above before giving the nuts a final tightening with the basin wrench or supplied tool until snug.

Attach the faucet's integrated hot and cold supply lines to the corresponding shutoff valves. The hot line is typically marked with a red indicator and connects to the left valve. The cold line is marked blue and connects to the right. Screw the connection nuts on by hand until they are finger-tight. Then, use an adjustable wrench to give them an additional quarter- to half-turn. Be careful not to overtighten, as this can damage the gaskets inside the fittings and cause a leak.

For a pull-down faucet, you must connect the sprayer hose. Locate the main outlet hose coming down from the faucet body. Connect the flexible sprayer hose to this outlet; it will often be a quick-connect fitting that simply clicks into place. Find the included counterweight and clamp it onto the sprayer hose at the location indicated in the instructions (usually marked with a sticker on the hose). This weight is what retracts the sprayer head back into the faucet spout.

This is the most critical step. Slowly turn both the hot and cold water shutoff valves counter-clockwise to open them fully. Immediately check for any leaks at all connection points: where the supply lines meet the shutoff valves, and where they connect to the faucet's tailpieces. Use a dry paper towel or your dry fingers to wipe each connection joint. Any moisture indicates a leak that needs to be addressed by slightly tightening the connection or by disconnecting, checking the gasket, and reconnecting.

From the top of the sink, turn the faucet handle on and test its operation. Cycle between hot and cold water, and verify they are connected correctly. Pull out the sprayer head and test its function and spray patterns. Let the water run for a minute to flush any debris from the lines. After the test, turn the faucet off and perform one final, thorough leak check under the sink. Once you are confident there are no leaks, clean up your tools, remove the bucket and towels, and place your items back in the cabinet.