

A comprehensive guide to safely disconnecting the plumbing, detaching an old bathtub from its alcove, and removing it from the bathroom as part of a remodel. This process includes shutting off the water supply, disconnecting the drain and overflow assembly, removing the tub surround, and finally, extracting the tub itself.
Best for advanced DIYers and professionals with basic plumbing knowledge and familiarity with power tools. Requires HDX Indoor Safety Glasses Clear (1-Pack) VS-9300, clear and Work Gloves and Husky Large Heavy Duty Glove 67812-06.
Begin by completely shutting off the water to the bathroom. The safest method is to turn off the main water valve for the entire house. Once off, open the tub faucet and another faucet at a lower level in the house to drain any remaining water from the pipes. Clear the bathroom of all movable items like bathmats, toiletries, and decorations. Lay down protective drop cloths on the floor to prevent damage from debris and tools. Finally, put on your safety glasses and work gloves.
Start the disassembly by removing the faucet trim. For the handles, look for a small set screw (often requiring an Allen wrench) or a hidden screw under a decorative cap. Unscrew and pull the handles off. The large decorative plate behind the handles, called an escutcheon plate, is typically held on by two long screws; remove them and the plate. For the tub spout, check underneath for a set screw. If present, loosen it and the spout will slide off. If not, the spout is threaded and needs to be unscrewed by turning it counter-clockwise. Use a rag and channel-lock pliers if it's tight to avoid scratching the finish.
Since we assumed there is no access panel, you must create one. Go to the wall directly behind the tub's faucet and drain assembly. Use a stud finder to locate the studs on either side of the plumbing valve and drain pipes. You want to cut an opening between the studs. Mark a rectangle roughly 16 inches wide by 24 inches tall. Use a drywall saw to carefully cut along the marked lines. Cut gently to avoid plunging the saw too deep and hitting pipes. Remove the piece of drywall to expose the tub valve, water supply lines, and the waste and overflow assembly.
The waste and overflow is the assembly that connects the tub's main drain and the overflow opening to the house's drain pipe. First, from inside the tub, remove the overflow cover plate; this will often detach the linkage for the drain stopper. Next, use a tub drain wrench (or the handles of needle-nose pliers spread open) to engage the crossbars in the drain flange and turn it counter-clockwise to unscrew it. From the access panel you cut, use channel-lock pliers to loosen the large slip nuts that connect the overflow tube and the drain shoe pipe to the central sanitary tee. Once loosened, the entire assembly can be pulled away from the tub.
To completely free the tub, the wall material covering the tub's nailing flange must be removed. This typically means removing tile and backer board for about 6-8 inches above the tub deck around all three sides of the alcove. Use a hammer and chisel or a small pry bar to carefully chip away the tiles. Once the tile is gone, cut through the drywall or cement backer board with a utility knife or reciprocating saw to expose the wall studs and the tub's nailing flange, which is a lip that extends up onto the studs.
With the nailing flange exposed, you can now detach the tub from the wall studs. Look for the screws or roofing nails that were driven through the flange into the studs. Use a drill/driver or a pry bar's claw to remove them. Often, these fasteners are corroded or embedded in tile adhesive. The most effective method is often to use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting or demolition blade. Slide the blade between the flange and the stud and cut through each fastener. Do this for all studs along the three sides of the tub.
With a helper, you can now remove the tub. Since it is a lighter acrylic/fiberglass model, it should be manageable. Use a utility knife to cut any remaining sealant between the tub and the floor. Have one person stand at each end. Lift the edge of the tub that is away from the wall, then pull it outwards from the plumbing wall. Once it is clear of the studs, you can pivot and carry it out of the bathroom. If the tub is too large to fit through the doorway, you can easily cut it into two or three pieces using the reciprocating saw. Cut carefully and be aware of any fiberglass dust, which can be an irritant.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Solution: Opening and closing the valve a few times can help ensure all the water is drained out.
Solution: You only need to remove the wall material a few inches above the tub lip to free it.
Solution: Removing the drywall completely to the ceiling can make installing new backer board and waterproofing easier than patching in a small section.
Solution: Scoring the drywall before cutting helps to create a cleaner edge for easier repair later.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Always shut off the main water supply to your home and drain the lines before beginning. Wear safety glasses (HDX Indoor Safety Glasses), heavy-duty gloves (Husky Large Heavy Duty Glove), and a respirator (3M P100 Household Respirator) to protect against dust, debris, and potential mold. Ensure the work area is well-ventilated, and if using power tools, keep cords away from water and work carefully.
A tub drain wrench (like the Husky Double Ended Tub Drain Wrench) is highly recommended for efficiently removing the drain assembly without damaging the plumbing. While not always strictly necessary, a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade (like DIABLO Demo Demon) can significantly ease the removal of difficult tubs, especially heavy cast iron ones, by cutting them into manageable pieces. A pry bar (Stanley 12 in. Wonder Bar Pry Bar) is also essential for detaching the tub.
For an intermediate DIYer, removing a bathtub typically takes 4-8 hours, depending on the tub type, access to plumbing, and unexpected issues. While some initial steps can be done solo, extracting the tub itself, especially if it's cast iron, often requires at least two people due to its weight and bulk to prevent injury or damage.
A common mistake is not completely shutting off the water or checking for remaining pressure before disconnecting pipes, leading to leaks. Another is forcefully prying without locating all securing points (like nailing flanges behind the surround), which can damage surrounding walls or the subfloor. Always double-check for hidden screws or mortar that might still be holding the tub in place.
For very heavy tubs like cast iron, the safest method is often to break or cut it into smaller, more manageable pieces using a sledgehammer or a reciprocating saw with appropriate blades (DIABLO Demo Demon). Protect your surroundings with heavy burlap fabric (Agfabric Burlap Fabric) and wear heavy-duty safety gear. Alternatively, gather ample help and use a dolly or furniture movers, protecting floors with blankets or cardboard.
If you find water damage or mold, stop work immediately. Assess the extent of the damage; minor mold can often be cleaned with appropriate solutions and PPE, but significant damage requires repair or replacement of affected drywall, studs, or subflooring. Address these issues thoroughly before installing a new tub to prevent future problems.
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30 min | 7 Steps