How to Remove an Old Bathtub for a Bathroom Remodel

The first and most critical step is to prepare the work area and ensure safety. Turn off the main water supply to the house or the shutoff valves for the bathroom. Open the tub faucet to drain any residual water. Lay down protective coverings like thick cardboard or ram board on the bathroom floor. Equip yourself with all necessary Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), including safety glasses, heavy-duty work gloves, and a dust mask or respirator to protect against dust and debris.

Begin the plumbing disconnection by removing the faucet handles, trim plates (escutcheons), and the tub spout. Faucet handles are typically held by a small set screw, which can be removed with an Allen wrench or a Phillips head screwdriver. The escutcheons may be screwed on or simply caulked in place and can be pried off gently with a putty knife. The tub spout usually unscrews counter-clockwise, though some models have a set screw on the underside that must be loosened first.

To disconnect the tub drain, you must first access the drain and overflow assembly (waste and overflow). Since there is no access panel, you'll need to create one. Go to the wall behind the tub's faucet and drain, and cut a 12x12 inch or larger hole in the drywall between two studs. Use a drywall saw for this. Once you can see the plumbing, use a tub drain wrench (also called a drain key) inserted into the drain crossbars from inside the tub to unscrew the drain shoe. Then, from the access hole, unscrew the slip nuts on the overflow pipe and the P-trap to completely disconnect the drain assembly from the tub.

With the plumbing disconnected, you must now remove the wall material covering the tub's mounting flange. For tile walls, this means demolition. Use a hammer or small sledgehammer to break up the tiles. Start a few inches above the tub and work your way up. It's often easiest to remove at least 6-8 inches of tile and the backer board (drywall or cement board) behind it, all the way down to the wall studs. A pry bar will help remove larger chunks of tile and backer board. A reciprocating saw with a demolition blade can be used to make clean cuts through the drywall/backer board above the demolition area.

Once the wall is open and the tub's nailing flange is exposed, you need to detach the tub from the wall studs. Look closely along the top edge of the flange for the nails or screws that secure it to the studs. Use a pry bar or the claw of a hammer to pull out the nails. If screws were used, back them out with a drill or impact driver. If the fasteners are rusted or inaccessible, use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade to cut through them by sliding the blade between the flange and the stud.

This is the most physically intensive step. With the tub fully disconnected, use a pry bar and wooden blocks to begin lifting the tub. Wedge the pry bar under the front edge and use a block as a fulcrum to lift it slightly. Slide more blocks underneath to hold it up. Work your way around the tub, lifting and blocking until it's raised a few inches off the floor and free from the wall alcove. The goal is to 'walk' it out from the wall. At this point, you have two options: get help to carry the extremely heavy tub out, or break it up for easier removal.

For a cast iron tub, the safest removal method is often to break it into manageable pieces. After moving the tub to the center of the room (on top of your floor protection), cover it completely with a few old, heavy blankets. This is crucial for containing the shards of porcelain and iron. Wearing your full PPE, strike the tub firmly in the center with a sledgehammer. It will take several hard blows. The porcelain will shatter first, followed by the cast iron cracking. Break it into 3-4 pieces. These pieces can then be carried out of the house individually.