Begin by completely shutting off the water to the bathroom. The safest method is to turn off the main water valve for the entire house. Once off, open the tub faucet and another faucet at a lower level in the house to drain any remaining water from the pipes. Clear the bathroom of all movable items like bathmats, toiletries, and decorations. Lay down protective drop cloths on the floor to prevent damage from debris and tools. Finally, put on your safety glasses and work gloves.

Start the disassembly by removing the faucet trim. For the handles, look for a small set screw (often requiring an Allen wrench) or a hidden screw under a decorative cap. Unscrew and pull the handles off. The large decorative plate behind the handles, called an escutcheon plate, is typically held on by two long screws; remove them and the plate. For the tub spout, check underneath for a set screw. If present, loosen it and the spout will slide off. If not, the spout is threaded and needs to be unscrewed by turning it counter-clockwise. Use a rag and channel-lock pliers if it's tight to avoid scratching the finish.

Since we assumed there is no access panel, you must create one. Go to the wall directly behind the tub's faucet and drain assembly. Use a stud finder to locate the studs on either side of the plumbing valve and drain pipes. You want to cut an opening between the studs. Mark a rectangle roughly 16 inches wide by 24 inches tall. Use a drywall saw to carefully cut along the marked lines. Cut gently to avoid plunging the saw too deep and hitting pipes. Remove the piece of drywall to expose the tub valve, water supply lines, and the waste and overflow assembly.

The waste and overflow is the assembly that connects the tub's main drain and the overflow opening to the house's drain pipe. First, from inside the tub, remove the overflow cover plate; this will often detach the linkage for the drain stopper. Next, use a tub drain wrench (or the handles of needle-nose pliers spread open) to engage the crossbars in the drain flange and turn it counter-clockwise to unscrew it. From the access panel you cut, use channel-lock pliers to loosen the large slip nuts that connect the overflow tube and the drain shoe pipe to the central sanitary tee. Once loosened, the entire assembly can be pulled away from the tub.

To completely free the tub, the wall material covering the tub's nailing flange must be removed. This typically means removing tile and backer board for about 6-8 inches above the tub deck around all three sides of the alcove. Use a hammer and chisel or a small pry bar to carefully chip away the tiles. Once the tile is gone, cut through the drywall or cement backer board with a utility knife or reciprocating saw to expose the wall studs and the tub's nailing flange, which is a lip that extends up onto the studs.

With the nailing flange exposed, you can now detach the tub from the wall studs. Look for the screws or roofing nails that were driven through the flange into the studs. Use a drill/driver or a pry bar's claw to remove them. Often, these fasteners are corroded or embedded in tile adhesive. The most effective method is often to use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting or demolition blade. Slide the blade between the flange and the stud and cut through each fastener. Do this for all studs along the three sides of the tub.

With a helper, you can now remove the tub. Since it is a lighter acrylic/fiberglass model, it should be manageable. Use a utility knife to cut any remaining sealant between the tub and the floor. Have one person stand at each end. Lift the edge of the tub that is away from the wall, then pull it outwards from the plumbing wall. Once it is clear of the studs, you can pivot and carry it out of the bathroom. If the tub is too large to fit through the doorway, you can easily cut it into two or three pieces using the reciprocating saw. Cut carefully and be aware of any fiberglass dust, which can be an irritant.