
How to Install a Garbage Disposal for the First Time
About This Project
This guide provides comprehensive, step-by-step instructions for a first-time installation of a new garbage disposal in a kitchen sink. The process covers safety precautions, removal of the existing sink drain, preparation of the new disposal unit, installation of the mounting assembly, connecting all plumbing, and testing the final installation for leaks and proper operation.
Best for experienced DIYers and homeowners with some experience with basic plumbing knowledge and familiarity with power tools. Requires FLUKE 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester 2432932.
Tools & Materials

Unger 6 Gal. Heavy-Duty Plastic Bucket DB02

WYPALL L40 Towels, Dry Up Towels, 19-1/2 in. x 42 in., White, 200 Towels/Roll KCC05860

FLUKE 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester 2432932

Channellock 10 in. Tongue and Groove Plier 430

Bucket

Pliers

Unger 6 Gal. Heavy-Duty Plastic Bucket DB02
The Unger 6-Gallon Heavy-Duty Professional Cleaning Bucket holds more than 6 Gal. of liquid. The bucket can accommodate a scrubber up to 14 in. L. This bucket features measurement marks and 2-pour spouts

WYPALL L40 Towels, Dry Up Towels, 19-1/2 in. x 42 in., White, 200 Towels/Roll KCC05860
WYPALL L40 Wipers are effective wipers that absorb liquids lightning-fast. These wipes are made of bonded cellulose using DRC (double re-creped) technology for strength, softness and absorbency. As a wiping cloth, it soaks up liquids fast, but all you'll feel is softness, thanks to a plush, touchable outer layer. In fact, it's a popular choice for patient wiping in healthcare industries, for bathing and patient drying. These utility wipes are specially designed to absorb liquids, lubricants and oils (in restaurants for wiping counters, in mechanic shops, industrial and commercial factories and more), yet they're soft enough for use on face and hands. Experience the difference in superior absorbency and cleaning at your home or office today. Towel/Wipe Type: Dry Wipes; Application: Bathrooms; Material(s): Cloth-Like; Number of Plies: 1.

FLUKE 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester 2432932
The portable 1 AC II non-contact voltage tester from Fluke are easy to use - just touch the tip to a terminal strip, outlet or supply cord. When the tip glows red and the unit beeps, you know there's voltage present. Electricians, maintenance, service, safety personnel and homeowners can quickly test for energized circuits in the workplace or at home and even detect miswires of an electrical outlet.

Channellock 10 in. Tongue and Groove Plier 430
The Channellock 10 in. Straight Jaw Tongue and Groove Pliers are constructed with high-carbon steel and fashioned with laser heat-treated teeth for strong, nonslip jaw action. Undercut tongue-and-groove

Bucket
Ideal for carrying or storing liquids.

Pliers
Grips and manipulates objects.
Steps
Preparation and Safety
15 minsBegin by ensuring the work area is safe and prepared. Turn off the corresponding circuit breaker in your home's electrical panel that powers the outlet under the kitchen sink. Use a voltage tester to confirm there is no power to the outlet. Clear out all items from the cabinet under the sink to create ample workspace. Place a bucket directly under the P-trap and drain pipes to catch water, and lay down old towels to absorb any spills.
Disconnect Existing Drain Plumbing
15 minsUsing a pair of channel-lock pliers, loosen the large slip nuts that connect the P-trap (the U-shaped pipe) to the sink's tailpiece and the drain arm extending into the wall. Once the nuts are loose, you should be able to unscrew them by hand. Carefully wiggle the P-trap free and empty any remaining water into the bucket. Then, remove the horizontal drain arm from the wall pipe.
Remove the Sink Strainer
20 minsFrom underneath the sink, use pliers or a strainer wrench to loosen and remove the large mounting nut holding the sink strainer in place. There may be screws to loosen as well. Once the nut is off, push up on the strainer from below to pop it out of the sink drain opening. Use a plastic putty knife to scrape away all of the old, hardened plumber's putty from the sink's surface. Clean the area thoroughly with a rag and a cleaning solvent if necessary.
Prepare the New Disposal
25 minsBefore mounting, prepare the disposal unit. First, install the power cord. Turn the disposal upside down, remove the electrical cover plate with a screwdriver, and connect the wires from the power cord kit to the disposal's wires (black to black, white to white, green to green ground screw) using wire nuts. Secure the cord with the strain relief clamp. Next, locate the dishwasher inlet port on the side of the disposal. Insert the tip of a flathead screwdriver into the opening and strike it firmly with a hammer to knock out the plastic plug. Reach inside the disposal's grinding chamber and remove the dislodged plug.
Install the New Mounting Assembly
20 minsTake a small amount of plumber's putty and roll it into a snake-like rope about 1/2-inch thick. Press this rope firmly around the underside of the new sink flange (the metal drain piece). From the top of the sink, press the flange down securely into the drain opening, so the putty oozes out. From underneath the sink, slide the fiber gasket, then the backup flange, and then the mounting ring over the bottom of the sink flange. Secure it by attaching the snap ring. Finally, tighten the three mounting screws evenly and firmly with a screwdriver. This will pull the assembly tight against the sink. Wipe away the excess putty from inside the sink with a rag.
Mount the Garbage Disposal
15 minsThis step can be awkward due to the weight and position of the disposal. Lift the garbage disposal unit up to the mounting ring. Align the three mounting tabs on the disposal with the ramps on the mounting ring. Push the disposal up and turn it clockwise until the tabs lock firmly into place over the ridges on the mounting ring ramps. You should feel it lock in. You can use the small wrench often supplied with the disposal (or a pair of pliers) to insert into a mounting lug for extra leverage to turn and tighten it fully.
Connect the Plumbing
30 minsFirst, connect the drain discharge tube. Place the rubber gasket inside the disposal's discharge outlet, then attach the L-shaped discharge tube with the metal flange and two screws. Next, connect the dishwasher drain hose to the dishwasher inlet you prepared earlier. Slide a hose clamp over the hose, push the hose onto the inlet, and tighten the clamp securely with a screwdriver. Finally, assemble the new P-trap. You may need to dry-fit the pieces and cut the pipes to the correct length with a hacksaw or tubing cutter to align properly between the disposal discharge tube and the drain pipe in the wall. Once sized, connect all pieces and hand-tighten the slip nuts, followed by a quarter-turn with channel-lock pliers.
Final Checks and Testing
15 minsWith everything connected, it's time to test your work. Plug the disposal's power cord into the switched outlet under the sink. Place the sink stopper in the drain and fill the sink basin about halfway with cold water. Lay dry paper towels on the bottom of the cabinet under all the new pipe connections. Now, remove the sink stopper to let the water rush down, and immediately turn on the wall switch for the garbage disposal. While the water is draining and the disposal is running, use a flashlight to carefully inspect the sink flange, dishwasher connection, discharge tube, P-trap, and all slip nuts for any signs of dripping. If you find a leak, turn off the disposal and water, and tighten the leaking connection slightly.
Common Problems
Dishwasher hose tears during garbage disposal installation.
Solution: If the dishwasher hose is stuck, you can gently pry it with a flathead screwdriver, but be careful not to tear the hose.
Water spills onto the floor when disconnecting pipes.
Solution: Have a bucket or a pan ready underneath the pipes to catch any water that drains out when you disconnect them.
Confirm the unit is unplugged before opening the electrical compartment.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Always double-check all connections before restoring power and water.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Only knock out the dishwasher plug if you are connecting a dishwasher. If you knock it out by mistake, the disposal will leak when you run the dishwasher.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Do not perform this step if you are not connecting a dishwasher. An open port will cause a major leak.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Be sure to remove the knocked-out plastic plug from inside the disposal chamber to prevent it from causing a jam or damage later.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long should a first-time garbage disposal installation take, and what's the most challenging part?
For a beginner, expect the installation to take between 2-4 hours, depending on the condition of your existing plumbing and whether you need to run new electrical wiring. The most challenging aspect is often working in the confined space under the sink and ensuring all plumbing connections are leak-free during the final test.
What are the most crucial safety steps I need to take before starting this project?
Always start by turning off the power to the disposal circuit at your home's main breaker panel and verify it's off with a non-contact voltage tester. Additionally, shut off the water supply to the sink. These steps are critical to prevent electrical shock and minimize potential water damage during the installation process.
The provided tool list includes items like a 'ceiling fan' and 'trash receptacle'; are these actually needed for disposal installation?
No, the ceiling fan (Hampton Bay Danetree) and the trash receptacle (Carnegy Avenue Oak Trash Receptacles) are definitely not needed for installing a garbage disposal. They appear to be errors in the provided tool list. Focus on the plumbing-specific tools, screwdrivers, and safety equipment like a flashlight.
What's the most common mistake beginners make that leads to leaks, and how can I prevent it?
The most common mistake is improper sealing of the sink flange with plumber's putty or insufficient tightening of the mounting assembly. To prevent leaks, apply a generous, even bead of Oatey 14 oz. Plumber's Putty around the flange before seating it, and ensure the mounting bolts are tightened firmly and evenly, checking for drips during the final water test.
My new disposal doesn't come with a power cord; what do I need to do to connect it electrically?
If your new disposal doesn't have a pre-installed power cord, you will need to purchase an InSinkErator Power Cord Installation Kit and a Halex 1/2 in. ACC Non-Metallic Strain Relief Cord Connector, both listed in your materials. Carefully follow the kit's instructions to wire the disposal safely and secure the cord with the strain relief before mounting the unit under the sink.
After installation, my disposal hums but isn't grinding. What could be the problem?
A humming disposal usually indicates the motor is seized or something is jammed inside the grind chamber. First, turn off the power at the circuit breaker. Then, look for a small hex wrench hole on the bottom center of the disposal; insert the special Allen wrench (often included) and turn it back and forth to free the impellers. Also, press the red reset button located on the bottom of the unit.


