Begin by preparing your work area. Lay down old towels or a tarp around the base of the toilet to catch any water spills and protect the floor. Locate the water supply shut-off valve, which is typically on the wall behind the toilet connected to a flexible hose. Turn the valve clockwise until it stops to shut off the water supply. Next, flush the toilet and hold the handle down to drain as much water as possible from the tank.

Even after flushing, there will be a significant amount of water left in the bottom of the tank and in the bowl. Use a large, absorbent sponge to soak up all the remaining water from inside the tank and transfer it to a bucket. Then, do the same for the water in the toilet bowl. The goal is to get the toilet as dry as possible to prevent a messy spill when you lift it.

Place a small towel or bucket directly below the water supply line connection at the bottom of the toilet tank to catch any drips. Using an adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers, grip the coupling nut on the supply line and turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it. Once loose, you should be able to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.

At the base of the toilet, you will find two bolts, one on each side, covered by plastic caps. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry these caps off. Underneath, you will find a nut and washer. Use an adjustable wrench or a socket set to remove the nuts from the closet bolts by turning them counter-clockwise. Once the nuts are off, gently rock the toilet side-to-side and forward to break the seal of the old wax ring. With a firm grip on the bowl, lift the toilet straight up off the bolts and carefully set it on its side on the prepared towels.

With the toilet removed, you will see the old wax and the toilet flange. Use a plastic putty knife to scrape all of the old, messy wax off the flange on the floor. Stuff a rag into the drainpipe opening to block sewer gases and prevent tools from falling in. Also, turn the toilet on its side and scrape the old wax from its outlet horn. Clean both the flange and the bottom of the toilet with rags. At this time, carefully inspect the toilet flange for any cracks, breaks, or signs that it is not securely fastened to the floor. If it's damaged, it must be repaired.

Remove the old closet bolts from the flange. Insert the new T-bolts that came with your wax ring kit into the slots on the flange, with the threaded ends pointing straight up. Slide them so they are parallel to the back wall, positioned at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. Most wax rings are designed to be placed directly on the toilet flange. Center the wax ring on the flange, pressing down lightly to make it stick. Ensure the plastic horn (if included) is facing up, away from the floor.

IMPORTANT: Remove the rag from the drainpipe. Carefully lift the toilet, keeping it level. Stand over the flange and look down to align the holes in the toilet's base with the two new bolts sticking up from the floor. Lower the toilet straight down onto the wax ring. Once it makes contact, press down firmly with your full body weight. Sit on the toilet (with the lid closed) to help compress the wax and create a solid seal. Do not twist or rock the toilet once it is in place, as this will break the new seal.

Place a plastic retainer washer (if included), a metal washer, and then a nut onto each of the closet bolts. Tighten the nuts by hand first. Then, use your wrench to snug them down, alternating between the left and right sides. Tighten each nut a half-turn at a time to ensure even pressure is applied to the base. The toilet should feel stable and not wobble. Be extremely careful not to overtighten, as this will crack the porcelain. Stop tightening as soon as the toilet is secure.

Reconnect the water supply line to the bottom of the fill valve on the toilet tank. Hand-tighten the nut first, then use your adjustable wrench to give it a final quarter-turn to ensure it's snug but not overly tight. Now, slowly turn the water supply valve counter-clockwise to turn the water back on. As the tank fills, listen for hissing and check for any leaks at the supply line connection. Once the tank is full and the water stops running, flush the toilet. Carefully inspect the base of the toilet all the way around for any signs of water seepage. Flush 2-3 more times to be certain the seal is good.

If the new closet bolts are too long and prevent the plastic caps from fitting, use a mini-hacksaw or a multi-tool with a metal-cutting blade to carefully cut them down to size. Be careful not to scratch the toilet's porcelain finish. Once trimmed, press the new plastic bolt caps firmly into place over the washers and nuts. For a clean, finished look, you can apply a bead of bathroom-grade, mildew-resistant caulk around the base of the toilet where it meets the floor. If you do caulk, leave a small 1-inch gap at the very back of the toilet so that if a future leak occurs, the water has a place to escape and you will be able to see it.