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Video by The Idaho Painter
The Idaho Painter
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This video provides a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to professionally stain a wood fence using an exterior oil-based, self-leveling, non-drying stain. It emphasizes crucial preparation steps, safety measures, product application techniques, and effective cleanup methods to achieve a durable and beautiful finish.
Transcript
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Transcript
(7,423 characters)[Music] Alright, we're here getting ready to do a fence today. We're going to oil it with Expert Stainless Steel Self-Leveling Oil that doesn't dry out. Before doing any kind of fence, decking, pergola, anything that's raw wood, make sure you test the moisture content. If you don't check the moisture content, you'll have problems with the application in the future. The wood won't absorb the oil as it should. There will also be problems with adhesion and penetration. So I'm using a Ryobi moisture meter. It's Bluetooth. I can select the wood species I'm going to test. It has two probes, simple and easy to use. I'm going to press it right into the wood, wait 5 or 10 seconds, and it's going to give me a reading. Ideally, what you're looking for is 16% or less. I think ideally it's 13% or less. I'm looking for 11% or less. So here at zero. This fence was installed over a year ago. It went through all summer. It's completely dry. New fences always come out extremely wet. Let them dry. Make sure you test the moisture in order to verify why they have zero. In order to verify that it's going to be working, I'm going to test it on Somewhere I know there's moisture in the wood, and I even have a tree here that has a root right there, so I know my moisture meter is working there. Make sure you test your wood if you're doing a fence, deck, pergola, or any wood before treating it with Experts Stain & Seal Self-Leveling Non-Drying Oil. [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] Alright, today we're here preparing for day two of oiling a fence. So we're working on staining the fence black. We're using Experts Stain & Seal Penetrating Oil on this fence. I'm going to give you some tips and tricks for applying this product and preparing it for spraying. We're going to use cardboard to cover the lawn. We'll use plastic and paper hand masks to cover things we don't want to get oiled on. I always wear a mask when I'm spraying oils. I like to wear a suit so I don't get oiled on me. At the end of the day, I take the suit off and throw it away, and I don't have that dirty oil on me or my clothes. Or on my skin, I'm going to use an extension with a brush to brush on the Stain. This is a penetrating oil; it's a self-leveling oil. So on a vertical surface, it means it's going to penetrate the surface. If there are drips, drips, and things like that, it self-levels on a vertical surface, and you won't see any of that. Now, Stain and Seal Expert is a product that doesn't have to be brushed on. The self-leveling properties mean you can spray it on, and you don't have to brush it on. Now, I generally always brush back when I'm doing any kind of bare wood surfaces, you know, to promote adhesion and penetration. I want to get really deep into the wood, and brushing back just helps in that process. That's one of the great things about Stain and Seal Expert is that you do n't have to do it, but I do it anyway. Another thing is masking a lot of products—solid color dyes, drying oils—you're going to have to mask all of that hardware if you don't want it to stain. Expert Stain and Seal is a non-drying oil, so I can come back the next day or the same day. One day just a rag could clean all these poles. It's going to be really simple and easy. The gate hardware, any kind of hardware, you don't have to mask any of that. It's going to save you a lot of time. We want to mask areas like parts of the fence. We don't want to get, you know, stain or a porous surface that could absorb the stain and you wouldn't be able to clean it off. So, you know, make sure you mask and prep properly. So, I'm going to prep. Start applying cardboard shields. We use cardboard shields just to tuck under the fence because we don't want to get it on the grass, on the ground, or just limit overspray. I'm using an airless sprayer to apply the product. Now, you can use... I know guys who use up to a 12 or 21 tip to just blast these fences super fast. I like to use a very small tip because I like to control overspray. There's no wind today, but you can still go very fast. I like to use just a 515 tip. It's going to put on a lot of product. It's going to give you product that you can brush on while you're applying it, but you'll really... It's going to help control overspray. I lower the pressure on my pump to, you know, around 500-600 psi. I don't have a gauge on my pump today that tells me exactly, but I have it at the minimum pressure, and that's just going to keep the product from being pushed out into the air, which, you know, over time it carries in the air since it 's an oil and it's very light. So let's get ready. Let's see how we stain this fence. We're going to stain it black. Stainless Steel Expert Self-Leveling Non-Drying Penetrating Oil. Let's get to work. So I'm going to start getting ready. I'm going to be doing both sides of this fence. I'm going to control overspray on the back by using a cardboard shield that will limit the overspray on the back. Now, I usually spray at an angle so that I don't overspray by shooting straight through the fence from this direction here. So I'm going to spray at an angle. So I'm hitting the sides of the picket, but limiting the overspray going through the fence. So it's going to look a little like This [Music] [Applause] [Music] and [Applause] [Music] never now you know I've got this side of the fence done actually I can you know start You know clean my post but now I just realized I have to do the other side of the fence the spray could get through these pickets and get to this so I do n't want to get ahead of myself and start cleaning this up I'll clean it up when I do the opposite side we're going to change the cardboards move to the other side I don't have to worry about it drying out because it's an oil that doesn't dry out So we can leave it there I can leave it there until the end of the day I can come back even tomorrow finish it up and clean it up So let's move on we have another side of the fence that we're masking and we're going to film the other side go take a look at [Music] that So when it comes to brushing back here's a simple little tip the direction of the brush matters a little bit if it's up like this and I'm brushing down I'm going to have a puddle under my film it's right here and It's going to cause more product to build up and splash onto my cardboard shield. If I point my filaments upwards right here, I won't have as much buildup. If I brush backwards, I brush downwards. So the direction of your filaments can matter if you're having a lot of downward dripping, puddles, and splashing, and wasting product going down onto your cardboard shields or whatever you have on the floor. So I have another little tip when it comes to controlling overspray. If you're having a problem with it at all, especially when doing top-up work, the angle of the spray gun has a lot to do with overspray and where it's going to land. If my gun angle is pointing upwards, it's going to be sent into the air. So if I'm worried about overspraying my caps, this is where a long extension really helps. I can actually pick it up and shoot with a downward motion right here, controlling the overspray so it's sent downwards instead of into the air in the wind. Have you heard of laundry sauce? You should get some. You should buy it. It's like... Oh, they 're better. They are better, yes, although they have better aromas
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