Strategic Back-Rolling for Top Coats

so it's more likely going to match and not leave, you know, a spot on the wall that has a different color or a different sheen doing the touchup. So, it there's, you know, a time and a place for everything. I would say also, you know, um, you know, you would only want to be back rolling if you're using a paint that is designed to back roll. Now, most contractor grade paints that we're using in new construction aren't really designed to back roll. They're they're less expensive. They don't have flow and leveling agents in them. So when you back roll them over the top of your primer, it doesn't flow and level and smooth out. So it's going to stipple it. So if you stipple your primer and then you spray on a top coat on top of that and you back roll that, now you've even added more stippling and more texture to your wall, which is not desirable. So, if I had any like option, if I wanted to back roll because I wanted to make touch-ups easier for me, touch-ups easier for the customer going down the road road and I wanted to back roll, I would spray my PVA primer on, and then I would spray a paint that was designed to back roll. And that's going to be a more expensive, higherend paint. And I know there's a paint Benjamin Moore Aura is um is a paint that actually has flow and leveling agents in it. Uh cashmere, I've actually got experience with both of those products. And Cashmere was actually designed for like level five finishes, smooth wall finishes, and that will flow out and level out, you know, pretty nicely. If you back roll this wall, if you spray cashmere on there and you back roll it, it's still going to stipple it to a certain extent. So, if the customer is