Perform Final Inspection and Prepare for Coating

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Sanding and Painting Stained and Lacquered Cabinet Doors

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What happens here

After completing the initial sanding, thoroughly inspect the entire cabinet door. Run your hands over all surfaces, profiles, and edges to feel for any remaining shiny spots or areas that were missed. The goal is a uniform 'mechanical scratch' across the entire door. If the door will receive a primer coat, you typically want to match the scratch pattern for optimal adhesion across all areas. For subsequent coats of paint, you may step up the grit to a very fine or super fine (e.g., 180 grit on the EkaDiamond sponge) for sanding between coats. The choice of grit for intermediate sanding also depends on the thickness of your primer layer. A thicker primer allows for slightly more aggressive sanding to smooth out imperfections, while a thinner layer might require a finer grit to avoid sanding through. Always aim to match the scratch from both mechanical and hand sanding for a cohesive base for your topcoat.

Goal: Ensure a uniform mechanical scratch across the entire door and prepare for the priming and top-coating process.

Tools and materials

EkaDiamond Abrasive Sponges — Final inspection and light sanding between coats, matching grits (e.g., 180 grit)
Lacquered Cabinet Door — The fully sanded surface
Primer — Preparing the surface for the topcoat, especially on areas where wood was exposed
Topcoat — The final layer of paint for the cabinet door

What they say

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right and say it it didn't take you very long to do this at all so that's scratched up good enough to begin our coding process absolutely yeah I know like for me I'm trying to do this extremely fast and because the faster I do it the more efficient I'm going to be I guess it comes down to money I want to make more money the faster I am I typically will have my half inch sponge I'll do my edges with my mechanical sander half ends is that wrong to do or no okay no I just prefer I feel like I get a better sand and I've got more control on the edges with the hand sponge yeah and I I did like I um I always have academic sponges I have a couple other your guys's sponges use we always keep them on the job site too I usually have an inspection table with an inspection light um I saw you adjusted the sponge I like to adjust the sponge a lot of times like this to get it down to the corners that's okay to do too yeah okay nothing wrong with that so I believe we're like ready to uh dust and re-coat all right right okay and so um we are going to recoat now I'm going to spray on whatever type of top coat it is I like using uh 2K polys so I catalyze polyurethane I'm going to spray it on um first coat an hour later I'm gonna sand in between coats what would I sand with in between coats generally MO most people will step up right I kind of go between sometimes I'll step up it depends on the thickness of your your primer also like on your coating what what how thick of a layer you lay down if you're laying it on very thick then I'm going to stay with the same grit but if it's a if it's a thinner layer then I might step up and go you know very fine here on primer um on the flat surface same thing I'm going to go very fine I'm always going to match these twos because I want that scratch to match right and then on the echo Diamond I'll step up to the 180. okay so um that's a really good point you just brought up so we have a half inch sponge we have a 10 millimeter of a sponge you're saying you def you want to match so if I'm using very fine on one I want to use very fine on the other yes so that that's good to know because sometimes I haven't paid attention to that as much so um and because you said the scraps you want the scratch to match so it's match of scratch to match the scratcher scratch the match

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