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Stesso

Assemble Seat Base and Supports

3:39
27:09
100.3K views

At 3:39 in

I Build $3,000 Pottery Barn Outdoor Chairs For $168

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What happens here

Arrange the three 2x8 bottom seat pieces between the two main leg pieces, which have been cut to the appropriate angles. Space the seat slats roughly 3/8 to 1/4 inch apart. The creator suggests using a piece of metal or scrap wood as a spacer. Ensure the cleanest side of the lumber faces upwards for the best aesthetic. Use pocket hole screws and outdoor-rated wood glue to firmly attach the seat slats to the angled leg supports. Overhang the front slightly to allow for the attachment of the front apron later. A total of two pocket holes per joint should be sufficient.

Goal: Construct the main seat and bottom support of the chair

Tools and materials

  • Cordless Drill RYOBI — Driving pocket hole screws
  • Lumber Pieces — Seat slats and leg supports
  • Pocket Hole Jig Kreg — Creating precise pocket holes for strong joints
  • Pocket Hole Screws — Securely joining wood pieces. Blue color indicates outdoor rating
  • Spacer — Ensuring consistent spacing between seat slats
  • Wood Glue Titebond — Reinforcing joints; Titebond II or III recommended for outdoor use

What they say

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ground. So, right now it's probably at 15. By the time we have more stuff on top, that'll be 16. We have our can here. Now, let's get our seats. I found it that working on the bottom seat part/ leg, I guess, works the most efficient. So, I have my three pieces that are 2x8s for the bottom part. I have my long sides here. I kind of like to flip them upside down. Also, check make sure you have the cleanest side of the 2 by material, the one that has like the least imperfections on it. Like this is a tear out. That's going to be on the bottom. So, put that on top right there. And we're going to space these out kind of like cleats. There's no math equation here. I just kind of picked a number roughly 3/8 to a quarter. So, that looks like about 3/8 there. And then we're going to overhang this just a bit because there's going to be an apron up front here. Think about here, right? There's going to be an apron. You're sitting down like that. So, all we have to do now is lay out where our pocket holes are going to go. Two is going to be enough per side and wood glue. And that's going to give us adequate bottom support to make sure that no matter the weight, this thing is going to hold up. So, I'm using this little scrap piece right there. As you can see, there's overhang here for this apron. And what I want to do is I want to make sure this crease lines up with this crease. And I'll show you how to tighten it up later. But right now, we're strictly looking for alignment. Once you get your first piece started here, you could just space out as you go and you shouldn't have any problems. And in regards to pocket holes, there's many different pocket hole jigs like this, like this, or my pride and joy, the Craig Foreman, which is a pocket hole machine, but you don't need it unless you are like building mass amounts of cabinets, which every once in a while will do. [Music] Get a little bit of this goo on here. I recommend using a Taibon 2 or Taibon 3. It's the strongest stuff, but Tyon 3, which this is not. This is two, is actually waterproof. Uh, so if you really want it to withstand all the crazy weather conditions, I recommend going with that one. But Taon 2 is strong as well. So I'm not going to

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