How to Spray Flawless Kitchen Cabinets | Pro Finish with Apollo HVLP Sprayer

So, in this lesson, I'm going to be talking about, you know, the spraying system that I use coupled with my PSDR system. So, there's going to be a lot of different options. You know, if you purchase this system, you're going to be spraying up. And, you know, if you've never sprayed hanging up and you've you're accustomed to spraying, you know, horizontal. There is some differences. There is a learning curve to it. You can't spray as much material hanging as you can vertical uh because of the possibility of runs and sags. You probably have to change some things if you're using an hair sprayer tip size. I, you know, typically, you know, was accustomed to spraying using 310 tips. I started, you know, messing around with this system 2K poly's and how to jump down to tip size down uh tip sizes down to like a 206 to uh keep from product from actually running spraying vertically. Uh I've eventually adopted using an HVLP sprayer. There's multiple reasons why I use an HVP sprayer. This is the system I use currently right now. This um is a brand new system that that Apollo has come out with. It's the Apollo Precision 6. It's a six-stage turbine. And being a six-stage turbine, you know, using your cup gun or a gravity feed gun, you don't have to thin any products, including like heavy grain filling primers and stuff. It's um an absolutely amazing system. One of the great things about HVLP spray systems is the products, materials that I use, 2K poly's, you know, that are becoming more and more popular, one and 2K poly's, uh, for instance, like Rener A51. They're super expensive products. You know, when you begin catalyzing them, they're even more expensive. You don't want a lot of material waste. An airless rare has an astronomical amount of material waste, especially when you're hitting sides and edges of your doors. You're just getting tons of fallout, tons of overspray, and you're it's just money actually just falling on the ground. HVOP spraying, high volume, low pressure spraying has a high um amount of transfer rate of product going from your gun to your substrate. significantly higher than uh an airless sprayer. So, you don't have hardly any dust created. You don't have like tons of crushed atomized paint um silica dust floating around, floating outside of your spray area, inside the booth right here that I've been spraying in. I've been, you know, spraying in here for years and I barely have any amount of dust even floating out of this booth, even on my cameras. cameras are sitting right there. They don't get covered with dust, you know, in this uh in the spray booth coupled with an HBL system like the Apollo Precision 6. So, the there's different there's different um tools out there. You might be accustom with air assisted airless. You might be accustom with airless spray. You might be accustom with HVLP spray. I've actually done um you know all the different methods. you know, I just come to um like and utilize, you know, Apollo's products and systems when it comes to um spraying vertically. think I I have less less um likely to have runs when I'm using an HVLP system uh than an airless system when I um cuz every now and then I go back and forth for different reasons. But if I'm spraying up, you know, you got to move a lot faster. You're throwing on a ton more product cuz you're not mixing air, you know, with um your paint using an airless sprayer. So, there are some challenges. I think the learning curve, if you know how to use an airless sprayer, the learning curve spraying vertically, you know, if you're going from horizontal to vertically, you're going to pick it up a lot faster using an HVLP sprayer. Less likely to get runs. If you're using products like, you know, one and 2K poly's, like the product I use, I'll grab them right here. Rener 851. It dries extremely fast. It dries like a lacquer. Um, within 45 minutes to an hour, you could be sanding it. If you get a run, don't panic. You know, an hour later, you can sand that run out. It mechanically sands out super fast, super easy. Uh, this is what I use, Rener 851, catalyzed or uncatalyzed. It's a selfseal product. I use it on uh furniture and I use it on cabinets. Uh, sometimes I use it on trim and I also use it on like small projects. It's I use it a lot. It's a great product. If you've never tried it, you got to give it a try. It's a water-based coating. So, it's the the coating that I use, the sprayer I use with the system I use. It's um worked out like a charm and it's actually made me lots of money over the years. The 851 can be catalyzed or not catalyzed. I won't go into a lot of detail about that, but that means, you know, 1K or 2K, uh, 1K can be used just right out of the can. It's ready to go. 2K is catalyzing it. So, adding a hardener to it to make the product more durable, scratch resistant, water resistant, chemical resistant does add a pot life to it. So, you got to clean it out within that pot life or you could ruin your equipment. Right now, the product is not catalyzed. Spraying on my first coat. It's a selfseal product. So anywhere where there's bare wood, it acts as a sealer. Also, one of the benefits to 851. So I told you I'd tell you, you know what I need nozzle setup I spray with. This is um the Apollo BHS cap. So it's a BCAP high solids. The HS is high solids cap because these are water-based highols product. That's the cap that I would recommend. The needle and nozzle inside. It's a 1.5 needle and nozzle set. So, that's the setup that I use for doing all my cabinets and doing all my furniture. I never change it. There's a lot of other combinations that you can use, but for all the products that I use, the uh waterborne uh 2K polyurethanes that I use, this is the setup that I use. A cup gun. Also, I do have a remote pot where it's just the fluid fed to the gun, you know, and um the air fed to the gun and not having a pot, which is convenient also. But then you definitely got to uh think about thinning out your products cuz you got 30 ft of hose. I um do have the Polaro Precision 6, which is a six-stage turbine, so you're less likely to have to thin out your products. Uh you don't have to thin them out at all if you're using them in a cup. So, you've seen me spray this door right here. I typically hit the bottom first. Now, you have the option. I, you know, if the door is short enough, like a drawer, I'll hold it up and spray the bottom, you know, held up. If it's too long or I can't do that, I'm going to face it towards my vent. And I'm going to get down and I'm going to spray two passes on the bottom. Then, I'm going to spray my two sides. I'll spray in my top. And then I'll begin spraying my two faces. Now, I got everything dialed in. I'm just going to be working with it. Started working with it on my booth to get, you know, set up where I wanted. My first door, uh, I sprayed it pretty heavy. Thought it was coming out too fast and I got it like kind of hanging down on the corners. Made some adjustments. Set it up to spray a little bit less. I got it dialed in just the way I want. One of the great things about a 2K poly one or 2K polyurethane or even Ren or 851 is if you get runs, uh, don't panic. So, one of the things about this system is is you're spraying hang and it might take some time to learn. You might get some runs, but runs are easy to fix if you're using the right products. If you're using I don't use lacquers anymore. Lacquers would sand really easy, but 2K polyurethanes, it's going to it'll be dry within an hour. I can mechanically sand it with my Egas 3x4 sander if I get a run on it and then reshoot it. So, don't panic if you get runs. Now, speaking from experience, you know, I did shoot um all my doors on a set of um cabinets once and I hung them out here other portion of my garage epoxy floor. Went out there an hour later and they're dripping all over the floor, every one of them. Uh and it was all fixable. It all sanded right out and I had to make some adjustments. The product was uh tented in the wrong base. It caused the product the product to not hang properly. But um needle tip uh nozzle cap size all makes a difference. So once again, this is a cap. This is a BHS cap. So um B high solids cap 1.5 needle nozzle set. So I'm going to show you what it looks like. My setup. I hang everything just hung, you know, right here. Got my uh respirator. Uh when I'm teaching, I typically don't wear the respirator. I always, you know, spray with my respirator. I'm going to put it on. We'll show you what uh spraying this door looks like as part of your PSDR, you know, system that you got, you know, set up. You know, part of making this system work for you, being fast and efficient, is also having the other tools that go along with it. the 3x4 sander from Unita, the Echasan. That is the best sander that you can actually use for cabinet refinishing. Um, highly recommend it. Um, it's a professional grade span uh sander, variable speed, and it uses um half inch um actually gamechanging open cell sponge, ecos sponges that attach to it, contour to rounded um surfaces, and it's just great for doing, you know, cabinet refinishing. So, this is all ready to uh go. I'm going to spray it again. Once again, you know, um I've got two uh things here. One hangs my mask typically. Another one hangs my gun. Sometimes my sanders hang in there if I'm um prepping and doing, you know, um spraying and sanding inside my booth all in one right here. But before spraying the door, I always wipe them down with a microfiber cloth and then I begin spraying them.