How to Spray a Door Jamb Like a Pro (No Drips or Runs!) | Airless Sprayer Tutorial

In this video, I'm going to show you how I go about spraying a door jam. I'm going to talk about the technique I use, the tip I use, and kind of go over why I do what I do, you know, in this situation. So I'm going to talk about, you know, my setup here. When I spray trim because I'm not tall enough, I always did actually be able to get it at a good angle and shoot it at a right angle. I always use a six inch extension, you know, when doing door jams. And I never take the extension off when I'm doing, you know, the baseboards or the window trim, anything. I like to reach the extension gives me and it just makes the gun more versatile. I don't have to bend over as much doing baseboards, et cetera. So I have my six inch extension. If you're curious what the green device is, it's a fan pivot. It'll rotate your gun 90 degrees. That's a magnetic device that just rotates it for any reason. If I need to quickly rotate it, I can just rotate it, you know, with my finger quickly and easily. I'm using a tritech tip. So I'm a big fan of tritech tips and especially their fine finished tips. I don't think there's any fine finish tip I made right now that's any better than tritech tips. The size of the tip, I use a 5-10 tip and somebody, if you have any experience spraying trams, some very very good question, you know, why don't you use a 3-10 tip. And when you see me spraying this door jam and some trams, you know, it's a 5-10 is a fairly wide fan compared to a 3-10, a 3-10 is, you know, double the six inches wide, a 5 is 10 inches wide. So it gives you, you know, more width. Now the reason why I choose a 5 is because it's way faster spraying doors. So I spray doors always in new construction with a 5. If I have just 4-inch trim around the house or smaller, like on baseboards, et cetera, a lot of times I'll side towards a 3-inch fan. But since I'm using a 5 on the doors, I also have baseboards that a 3-inch fan doesn't cover 100% of the baseboard like in one shot. So I like using a 5 on these taller-style baseboards. A 5, we've got our header up here. This header is not, it's not a little 4-inch header, which is like 3.5 inches. This is a larger header and from this distance to that distance, I like my tip when I turn this corner to be able to span that whole distance. So that's why I use a 5-10 on these door jams in this scenario. Like some people might think, you got too much overspray. The amount of overspray that you're going to have in certain situations doesn't overcome or outweigh the benefit that the spray pattern offers by being able to go faster on doors, being able to go faster on these large baseboards, being able to get it spanning the distance across that header and being able to just get a good finish across the door jam itself. So there's my setup tritech tip. It's got a Titan guard with a tritech gun. I like a 2-finger gun. I never, I can't stand 4-finger guns. A 2-finger gun. You have 2 fingers controlling the gun, 2 fingers on the trigger. If you have a 4-finger gun, you don't have anything controlling the gun. A lot of times guys will swap it down here to be able to pull a 4-finger gun, but then now you're controlling it way down here. It's just really weird. I don't even understand why they make 4-finger guns. This is hooked up to my tritech T5, so it's got a tritech gun on it. Pressure is going to be 2,200 PSI. Anytime I'm spraying trim, somewhere around that 2,100, 2,200 PSI, getting down to 2,000, that's probably a little bit low. So make sure your PSI is right according to the tip that you got on here. So I'm spraying a product from Sugar Wham's called a scuff tough match stuff with this 5-10 tip and that pressure, it's been spraying out super nice. So I'm going to talk about the door jam itself. I'm right handed, so it's more natural for me to spray a door jam from right to left. If you're left handed, it might be more natural for you to spray from left to right. Now how I actually spray a door jam, I came up with this method from years and years of practice of getting runs in certain places on door jams and window trim, etc. And I'll explain to you why I do what I do. When I spray, I'm going to start off of my surface. You never want to start spraying on your surface, whether you have an extension or not, because you're more likely to get a spit onto this nice smooth surface. I always start off the surface and end off the surface. So wherever I'm going to end, I'll come off and release my trigger. So I don't start pulling the trigger on, I don't release the trigger on. So I'm going to start off and I'm going to come into a sweeping arc. I don't want to have starts and stops. That's the whole goal of when you're trying to tackle something like this is not having to start and stop and or overlap. So early on in my career, what I would do is I would spray the face, I'd come straight up, spray that face, and then I'd come across and spray it coming across. So now I just came up. I created a line coming up with one coat. Then I come across and shoot it again. So this has got one coat. This has got two coats. It aligns. There's going to be a line right here. That's a run spot. And I would get runs there all the time. And so it's the same thing. If you just, you know, if you come up here and come back down, got an end point, a start and stop point, a heavy point, more likely to run. So you want to have this thing somehow sprayed continuously, you know, with no overlaps. Now sometimes you got to break the rules. But this is where the 5-10 tip, you know, comes in play. I mean, you're going to come up here and you want it because I'm doing a continuous movement. I'm not coming up and coming across. So I want this continuous movement like this to eliminate overlaps. And I'm going to come up and I don't want to come up and stall and turn the corner because if you stall, this is going to be a heavy spot right here. So it's going to be this natural sweeping movement coming up and then back down. My whole goal in this thing is to spray this whole side and a multiple passes without stopping and releasing the trigger. So I'm going to, I got to spray my edges first because you've got to get your edges. So I always spray my edges first. I don't count that as my continuous pass. I'm going to come up my edge. I'm going to come up my edge. A lot of people do not paint the tops. You should get up, ladder, spray the top. Then I'm going to begin my continuous pattern, spraying. I'm going to come up, I'm going to spray the face and then come back down. And then I'm going to come right back up because now I've got this point right here. I need to hit these sides at an angle. So I'm going to be come right back up and come back down, shooting it at this angle directly at that. And I find that that works way better to be able to hit these two sides versus spraying it straight and straight. So I want to go straight angle and then my last pass is going to be straight again because I want to hit it straight on. So I'm going to come up. I'm hitting the face. I'm coming at an angle, hitting an angle. And then I'm going to rotate and come back and I'm going to hit the face. So face, angle, face. And then that's going to be the outside of the door jam. I'll swap right to this side. And you can do either side first. I mean I can do this side first or I can do this side first. This is going to be the same thing. I'm going to come to this side, hit my edge, hit my edge, hit my tap, and then do my three passes on the door here. So I'm going to shoot it right now. Now I always wear a mask. I'm not going to wear a mask because I'm going to be talking while I'm shooting this door jam right here. I'm going to shoot the opposite side first and then I'll come back out here, shoot the other side. And you'll see what it looks like me with my back to the camera. I'm going to talk a little bit about heat. I cranked up the heat. Heat set 70 degrees. I want to make sure, return air. I want to make sure heat's off. I almost forgot heat's off. Now I'm ready to go. So I'm going to head aside. Nice steady pace. I'm going to try to hit this side. Pretty tight up against the wall. I'm going to come across the top. I want to shoot it down about a 45 degree angle. Now I'm going to work on the door jam. I'm going to start off the surface. Come up. Turn that corner. Come back down. Flap. Now I'm going to hit it at an angle. I'm watching it hit. Now I'm flat. Watching it hit my surface. Gel out nicely. Just like that. Now I'm going to swap sides. Side. Nice steady pace. When you hit your sides and top, it helps get that corner. Side. Top. Got a 45 degree angle. Now face. Angle. Face. Stop off the surface. Now that door jam is done. That's the first coat. Let it dry. I want to inspect it one more time. I already saw a few things on that the guy sanding, mist doing final sand. There was something that might not get filled in. It actually did get filled in with the paint. It's looking pretty good. That is how I actually spray a door jam. I do the exact same thing every single time. Once you get a system in a process that you can replicate like that with no runs, you would just spray every one. You would just start repeating it over and over. Early on in my career, I would just walk up to the door jam and just randomly start spraying somehow. I would get runs in different places every time because I didn't have the same system in the same process every single time. That was replicable. Now I have something that I can replicate every single time. This is the trim package you see in literally 95% of the houses that I pay. I can't even remember the last time I've gotten to run on a door jam. Now I'm going to do another video. You can stay tuned and watch another video. I'm going to show you how I do baseboards to replicate getting perfect baseboards like getting a perfect door jam. Now I'm also going to do a video how I would spray a window sill to get that perfect flat smooth finish doing a window sill. Stay tuned.