Cut In Painting Tips

this Christy Idaho painter here on paint like TV today I got a really cool video for you and this is how to master your cut ends like a pro this is a longer video so grab a drink sit back and relax and hopefully we're going to get you cutting in laser straight lines on your ceilings I'm gonna give you some really cool tips and tricks like you know how to breathe properly how do you approach your ceiling cut ends from the wall to the ceiling I'm gonna go over some really cool tools they're gonna make cutting in a lot faster and more efficient you know if you haven't subscribed to my channel hit the subscribe button hit that notification Duffus if you don't hit the notifications about subscribing does it mean anything you gotta click both of them it's free simple to do and it's easy now I'm gonna go back this is like nine years of tips and tricks I've been given they're gonna see me back when I was kind of shy and you know scared to make videos and stuff and so I didn't talk very loud so just tell me to talk louder in the comments down below but you know some things have changed like one of the things you know as a self-taught painter so it's just trial and error I used to use a 2 and a half inch angled sash brush now I use a 3 inch angled sash brush because I can cut in a lot faster and more efficient I now like a premiere of Montauk for my interior painting and cut ends that just makes it easier for me the tools and accessories you see and all my videos are typically down in the video description below so just check out that video description if you want to go on you see or hear more about you know the tools that I'm using in the video now let's get on with those tips and tricks but remember you know after watching all these tips and tricks there's nothing that's gonna make you cut in more fast more efficient and more efficiently and quicker and straighter than just simple practice you're gonna have to practice it just take some miles and miles but let's get on with the tip of snow and I'm gonna give you some tips John's gonna give you some tips if you like this video and you want more tips and tricks what can you do John you can check us out on YouTube we have more videos hit that subscribe button because we're always coming out with more more tips more tricks and more ideas for how to get your job done efficiently and to love what you do yeah and check us out on the Instagram hi-de-ho painter so here we go we're gonna give you the tips and tricks right now so stay tuned one of the first tips we're going to give you here when I'm cutting an ax I mean you've got different parts on your brush you've got the toe which is the point on an angle brush and you've got the heel I like leading with the toe sometimes and what that does is that creates a little bit more spring in the bristle which when you're working with a textured wall especially a heavily textured wall makes your brush bristle a little bit stiffer and helps push that paint up into those those valleys pass the peeps well our brush up here and I'll leave it at that point I'll start a little pool up and then I'll bring it up and that adds that nice stiffness especially if you're using a nylon or polyester blend brush eventually those bristles end up becoming softer over time as you're using them and that gives a little bit more stiffness while you're working on it through the day or if you've got a really rough texture so tip number two I'm going to show you how I start the cut ends and I kind of like to explain it like an airplane taking off and I'm going to start you low and then I'm gonna rise slowly and steadily rise up to the altitude that I want to begin the cut in and that's going to give you more odds of getting a nice straight cut in and something I just take and you go Pat my brush load it up by patting them on my bucket you know like you just I like to just touch it onto the surface and just get ready and so I'm going to touch it and then after I touch it I'm usually about an inch and a half away from the surface and then I'm gonna be getting gaining altitude and come up to my cut in so I'm gonna load my brush tap it here and then i'ma begin rising up to where I want my cut in and then just begin cutting in and I'm just gonna drag it down about a foot so you can see how I'm gradually rose up to you know my cut in where I want it it's like kind of gives you the ability to just take off get your confidence and build it up to your cut in and then start drying or start drawing your nice straight line so tip number two is simple so tip number three is you see the right brush you only as good as the tools you're using so choosing the right brush is extremely important and we have two brushes here and one of the things about having really good straight cut ends and doing good cut ends is choosing the brush that has bristles that will give you the best ability I guess I want to say to doing straight cutting so John why don't you go over these two brushes here in what we're looking for in bristles and what's going to give nice straight line well believe it or not there is a reason why when you go look at brushes there's so many different kinds of brushes and it all has to do with the different bristles they're using when you're using bristles or brush to do a lot of cut-ins you want bristles that are not flagged and so that is essentially like split ends on the end of the bristle and that holds more paint the problem is those ends then are more flimsy and that paint stays up on those tips and it makes it more difficult to get those nice clean lines and so a good example of a good brush for for cutting in is this is a pretty clear cut or it's got a corona Vegas on both of those the bristles aren't extremely flagged you've got kind of a soft touch to them and they will help you get that nice clean line without giving too flimsy at the tip there's one one other brush we use now you like doing cut ends and I think it works really really well in the bristle style it's a corona or a booster shine X and the wowzer connects the bristles instead of coming up and being rounded they're really flat yeah and that all has to do with how they're standing it and so sometimes you'll pull that that brush out in some brushes will curve really really bad like a nice dome and that's again that's great for holding paint not so great for getting those nice easy clean cutting lines so here we go with tip number four and what I'm using what I'm doing my cut ends today I'm using a pretty clear cut brush and there's a couple brushes I like for doing really good qualities cut ends I do like a pretty clear cut I think the rooster tie next the the flat profile of bristles is excellent so I like to use that one it's a little bit stiffer this than this one so kind of depending on the paint's I'm using also like the corona chinax brush those are three bucks brushes I like doing my cuttings with I am using today I'm testing out first time I've used this I'm using a Purdy roller four inch roller with their jumbo roller which rolls over on the edges which really good for doing the edges and stuff like this because the the lint and the pile of the bus goes on the edge of the roller kind of convenient so here we go with tip number four and tip number four is going over your cutting in twice and I'm gonna take do my cutting once I'm gonna rise up there get up to the altitude I walk right into the cut in I'm gonna cut in and then what happens is this isn't a smooth ball and we're typically very rarely dealing with some loose balls are always some type of texture like orange peel texture or knockdown texture or something so there's going to be peaks and valleys like mountains and so I'm going to go over to cut in and you see I'm gonna have these little spots on my cut in that didn't get the paint down inside of it the softer bristle brush the more of those you're gonna have this difficulty for bristle brush is gonna fill in more to those or even if it's really really rough that's where John's technique of using the back of the brush he calls it the heel-and-toe I could say back because I'm a little more simple I guess but so so going back over it again is gonna fill those things in so I'm gonna cut once go back over it again and cut twice and that's where I can make any Corrections also so if my first cut had you know some misses on it or some a little bit of a penis to it I could go back and correct it so here we go I'm just gonna hit my brush in I'm gonna get ready and I'm gonna be about an inch or so inch and a half from where I want to be I'm gonna rise up and then do my cut now technically do you know about a foot and then I tap it come back rise up and then finish my cut and there was about five little spots that were misses that sucking go in opposite direction filled in right hand and then like we typically always do we back roll over our cuts with our roller and now I'll give it the same texture instead of a brushstroke going this way when you come up and roll your wall they're gonna have the same texture and the authenticity of difference if there's any light spots and stuff after the wall the room is all driver to come back just touch them up we're not going to redo our Kyon's so tip number five is the cutting lines is a lot like riding a bicycle the faster you go the easier it is to keep your balance you know you don't have to wear a helmet for this but what you do want to do is move pretty quick when you're moving that line because the the more concerned you are about it and anxious you are about keeping that line nice and straight the harder time you're going to have keeping it actually straight so take a deep breath and let it go so there you have it we've got five tips for how to do cut in the wheat enjoy that we think are awesome check us out on the Idaho painter calm you can catch us on Facebook and Instagram at I hope you're on Instagram and D Idaho painter on Facebook until then we'll see you on our next video wow this is captain Zach with the apprenticeship I got a bonus tip for you today when cutting in I like to hold money might brush it out in the bucket like this for a couple of reasons it's out of the bucket so it's not going to get paint all over it because if you do that sometimes it falls in it's nice and secure it's not going anywhere and I got easy access to it if I'm gonna go and cut in start this task off by using our grid in our map we're going to load the paint up and just barely dip the paint into the bucket and load the nap up and the brush itself you want to barely dip the Brussels bristles into the brush I didn't paint it about four hours now and that's about as much pain as you want on them that brush and bristles you just dip it in lightly Pat it on the side of the bucket or Pat it onto nap and that's how you actually load up the brush full of paint and we're going to step on the ladder here to probably show you how to cut in the cow moline get up in the ladder here then we'll go to my brush I'm going to start in about six inch sections and the start put my brush about a quarter inch away from the crown molding get the bristles up to a point where I want them I'm going to drag them about six inches we load my brush up and drag it back the opposite direction load my brush up again I'm gonna get my bristles about a quarter inch to half inch away get them up to approximately where I've a lot slowly drag along the crown molding are you gonna wash out we're gonna drag it back the opposite direction you always want to drag it both ways they do your cotton come back over this side fill this in right here your bristles work your bristles slowly up to the point where you bought them once you get them to the point where you bought them and you're gonna start forming that line then you just start moving in that direction one more time we're going to get about quarter inch away work it up to where we want it once we get it to where we want it we start sliding it down load your brush up again back of the opposite direction take your time if you hold your breath while you're doing it or you actually cut in the line you can get a straighter line once you get your cutting done Oh is your nap up really good a lot of pain get within about a half-inch that quarter inch to eliminate any brush strokes so the texture of their paint just like how you roll the walls but now actually leaves a specific texture to the painting which you want to create by eliminating your brush strokes we get down about 6 inches when you roll the wall you're bringing the wall painting up to about a half inch from the crown molding this one I'm gonna go over a couple other specific tips and tricks that's going to improve your cut ends so I'm going to go over some of the tools that I'm gonna be using in this video to show you what I'm using that actually helps me do really really straight ceiling cut ends and they'll help you do a lot better ceiling cut ends I'll look just like mine so I'm going to go over to some of these tools right now and one of them that I use that's one of the basics things is gonna be just your cut in bucket and I've got a two gallon bucket I like using a two gallon bucket it has holds just to ride them out of with the right amount of paint and inside of it I've got a grid a one-gallon bucket grid I've had some questions people want to know what that grid looks like so I'm gonna pull it out right here I just had a comment on one of my cutting videos the other day asking if they could actually see the grid and here's the 1 gallon grid so use a 2 gallon bucket and I use a 1 gallon grid and a 1 guy sits down in the bucket just right and it's wide enough that it actually will cover my four inch roller and now so this is the roller them using and it's a Worcester four inch roller right here the roller cover I like using the pretty white dove roller covers and I like a three inch roller cover and I use this to actually after I do my cut ends I use that to actually back roll back roll over it so when I wrote my ceilings are roll my walls these stippling will actually match the walls when you roll the walls the cut in when you do the cut ends it's gonna leave a brushstroke that goes across the ceilings but you want to stipple over that so it actually will match the stippling on the walls and then two of the tricks that I'm gonna be showing you in this video are gonna require a five and one tool and that's gonna be to score an edge up there or a groove in your ceiling line that will give you the ability to do a really straight cut in got a caulking gun with clear caulking on some ceilings that are really bumpy and rough you're gonna put or you can put a bead of clear caulking up there I'm going to show you that so those are a couple of accessories that I got with me that I'm gonna be doing this and of course you got to have a brush they've got the two brushes that I'm using to do my ceiling cut ends they're actually Purdy brushes I do like thirty brushes I've used the whoosah brushes they're really good I haven't used a corona brushes I heard the Coronas are really good but depending on the paint you're using will depend on the brush that I use and if the paint is a really thin paint I like using a soft or a medium stiff brush and the pretty EXO glide right here is the brush I use when my paints are pretty thin if the paint's are pretty thick like this Benten of our old respect right here I'm going to use a stiff brush and I like using the pretty clear-cut brush right here this is labeled a stiff brush that's a nylon polyester brush and I do use now I used to use just two and a half inch angled sash brushes I've stepped up I'm using the three-inch brushes now the whiter the brush is the farther your cuttings are gonna go but I do like an angled sash brush because it can get into the corners a lot easier than just a state straight brush so I'm using this right here today I'll be using the clear cut the pretty clear-cut glide brush right here and the glide actually just refers to the handle and the width of the ferrule itself so got this right here all these tools if you're interested in purchasing the same tools that I've used in what I'm doing my ceiling cut-ins you can check out my video description down there I'll leave a link to all these tools that I like that vuze and tested for a lot of years you could also go to my tool store at my website the Idaho painter calm but now we're gonna get to showing you how to do the sealing cuttings and make them look perfectly straight like a professional so I'm going to go over two new tips or tricks or hacks here they're gonna give you really good sealing lines I've had a lot of questions on my previous videos on situations where the sealing line or the 90-degree angle is extremely rough has a texture or see you got the popcorn ceilings and there's a couple of scenarios a couple things that will actually help you out to make those ceiling cut ends a lot easier for you and one of them is using a five in one tool and that's simple five and one right here I always carry one of these in my pocket as a painter there's a lot of things this can be used for but if you stick a five in one tool up in the corner the 90-degree corner and you just score a little cut in there it's gonna leave like this little trough where your brush can actually just cruise along that little score and it'll help you make a straight line so the ceiling up there if there's a lot of texture if it's really rough you don't have a nice smooth 90 degree angle then just take your five and one score it and then do your cut in another option is to actually take and use a caulking gun and clear caulking but the problem with this is is you do have a way for the caulking to dry so you have to do all your caulking of your ceiling and then wait a day and then come back and cut it in but that will actually give you a really really smooth 90-degree corner to be able to do really straight ceiling cut ends so really like that method like the option if your ceilings are really bumpy and you really want to have a perp we straight lie one of the things about it is just you just want to put a little small bead in there not too much caulking but use clear caulking let it dry and then do your cut in so I'm going to get up here and I'm going to show you what just scouring it looks like what it looks like they put the caulking on there and then we're gonna do some cut ends so one of the obvious things that you're actually gonna have to have when you're doing your cut ends is the ladder because obviously it can't get up here and do my cuttings without having a ladder so I got a six-foot ladder here I'm going to be working with and I got a caulking gun up here to show you this method and then I'm going to show you the five-in-one tool up here this is a pretty smooth 90 degree angle but if it was pretty rough I could just take my 5 and 1 I'm just gonna stick it in here and just gouge it right there and it just leaves a little cut right there so once again I'm just gonna put it up here put a little bit of pressure and then just score it right down there and now I can just do my cut and take my brush in there and just run it right along that score it's not something that you can see you know from the video and you know if I got the the video up here close enough you're not going to be able to see it because it's really really microscopic it's just a little score and you don't want to see it anyways because it's really because it's it's a cut in the wall but the paint actually will just filled out a little trough as you run it right across here but that's a really handy trick to do if you want to make your ceiling cut in straight now we're gonna move on to the coffee method so if now we're going to do this option when it comes to caulking and this would be in extreme cases words really bumpy and they got…