Skip to main content

Cómo pintar frisos y revestimientos de madera sin chorreos, goteos ni marcas de brocha

6:54
785 views

Video by The Idaho Painter

The Idaho Painter

What happens here

This project provides verbose, step-by-step instructions on how to apply the first coat of paint to paneling and chair trim using a brush and roller. It emphasizes using high-quality tools and paint for a smooth, efficient application, while offering practical tips on avoiding and correcting common painting mistakes like runs and brush marks. The process is ideal for small projects where spraying might be too time-consuming due to extensive masking and cleanup.

Transcript

Hide

[music] Today I'm going to give the first coat on our paneling and chair trim here. And you know, there are many ways to apply it, you know? We would normally spray the entire molding . For this project, it's just a very small project. The amount of masking, cleaning a sprayer, the dust the sprayer will create , you know? It will take more work compared to just brushing and rolling it. If you get a good quality paint, you know? You can get very good results. You're brushing and rolling it and using a good quality paint and a high quality brush and roller. So I 'm just applying it today, you know? Using a brush and roller will be much faster and more efficient. I'm applying it with a microfiber roller. I'm applying it with a roller to speed things up, and then I'm spreading it with a Hampton Premier. It's a dupon nylon filament brush, so it spreads the paint. Very good. Less likely to leave marks. So it's the nylon version of DuPont. Timex came up with it, so every time I paint moldings I use Premier Hampton. So it spreads very well, the paint we 're using today is Vera Dynasty and it brushes on very well. It dries quickly, so you definitely have to work with it. You don't want to overwork it, apply it, put it on quickly, brush it on, spread it, move around. If you have any runs or anything, you can go back and sand them. Don't try to brush them. If it's already starting to dry, once it starts to dry and coagulate, you'll really mark it a lot. So just apply it, move fast. That's why I like to apply it. If you apply it first with a roller, it applies faster. Then you can spread it with your brush. The tools you use are what will really help you succeed. So I'm brushing it up here underneath. If you use a product that tends to run, and your entire line is in an upward motion, it is less likely to run because the paint is moving upwards. Instead of pushing it down, right here where you have to push it down to get it underneath, that's where you're most likely to have a run. So you want to check that, you'll be back. Before it starts to dry. If you start having a run, you know? Brush it. They start to dry there. So one of the secrets to removing runs without sanding is simply to use denatured alcohol. So once this first coat dries, if I have any runs anywhere, you can simply rub it with denatured alcohol and then repaint right on top. This is a vinyl panel, so it's paintable vinyl, very smooth, so it's not going to absorb paint, so it 's more likely to run than primed wood, which would actually absorb the paint. On the baseboard I'm going to go baseboard, skirting board, chair molding. I'm going, you know? with the wood grain in the panel. It's up and down. I don't want to brush it crosswise anywhere. Everything is up and down. Put something in the paint. Do you want to take it out? It only lifts a little bit of hair. But what I see, you know? The biggest frustration, especially with amateurs who don't have much experience brushing and rolling moldings. that is, they will continue working. I applied it, I extended it, I move on, I keep going. So if you try, I see something here that I missed or I see a run, you know? Even right here it's already starting to dry and spread over the top. And what I call starting to coagulate really goes to what we call marking it. When I say " mark it," I mean really bad brushstrokes, and "marking" refers to the ups and downs. It looks like strings all over your molding or whatever. You're painting, and since it's a smooth, non- textured surface, you know? The marks would be really noticeable. So one of the reasons you should want to strain your paint is just like that, by putting debris into the paint. I didn't smuggle my paints. I did n't strain my paint this time, but the bucket has a lot of loose debris in it that's mixing with the paint. So if you're doing something, you know, really critical, you do n't want to have to sand anything. You'll use a good new bucket. Down here in Mascaré, you know? with flop tape. I put my flop tape under the molding. So when you remove the tape, the carpet will lift up and cover the bottom edge of the molding there. When I apply my paint with my roller, I don't want to go too far, you know? Forward. I'm just doing my thing, you know? One pair of 4-inch slats at a time with pure white. It's covering incredibly well. Normally, untinted whites do not provide adequate coverage. There will definitely be two layers. Once you apply the first coat, there are a few things. I've got some Bondo joint filler, uh, some stuff I've seen around here, and then we'll roll that up and make our next

Auto-generated from the video audio.