Apply Plumber's Putty
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How to Install a Kitchen Sink Basket Strainer · Step 2 of 7
This guide provides comprehensive, step-by-step instructions for removing an old kitchen sink basket strainer and installing a new one. The process involves disconnecting the drain, removing the old unit, applying plumber's putty for a watertight seal, securing the new strainer with its locknut, and reconnecting the drain, followed by a thorough leak test.
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FAQs
Is this 'beginner' plumbing project truly beginner-friendly, and what's the approximate cost?
Yes, installing a kitchen sink basket strainer is considered one of the most accessible plumbing tasks for DIYers. The main challenge is often working in a confined space under the sink. The cost is generally low, primarily for the new strainer (typically $10-30) and plumber's putty, assuming you have most of the basic tools on hand.
Do I really need all the specific tools listed, like multiple types of pliers, or can I get by with fewer?
While specific tools like tongue-and-groove pliers (e.g., Channellock) and a basin wrench are highly recommended for their grip and leverage, you can often manage with adjustable wrenches and a large pair of standard pliers. A putty knife is essential for applying and cleaning up plumber's putty, and a good flashlight is crucial for visibility in the dark space under the sink.
I've installed the new strainer, but it's leaking around the rim when I test it. What did I do wrong, and how can I fix it?
Leaks around the rim usually indicate an issue with the plumber's putty seal or the tightness of the locknut. Ensure you applied a generous, uniform roll of plumber's putty around the flange before inserting the strainer body, and that the locknut was tightened firmly but not excessively. You'll likely need to disassemble the strainer, remove old putty, reapply fresh putty, and reassemble it carefully, ensuring everything is snug.
Can I use silicone caulk instead of plumber's putty for the seal under the sink flange?
While some plumbers use silicone, plumber's putty is generally recommended for basket strainers due to its pliable nature, which allows for easier adjustments and future removal. Silicone creates a more permanent bond and can make it much harder to remove the strainer later if needed. If using silicone, ensure it's suitable for plumbing and allow adequate cure time before testing.
Apply Plumber's Putty
Part of project
How to Install a Kitchen Sink Basket Strainer · Step 2 of 7
This guide provides comprehensive, step-by-step instructions for removing an old kitchen sink basket strainer and installing a new one. The process involves disconnecting the drain, removing the old unit, applying plumber's putty for a watertight seal, securing the new strainer with its locknut, and reconnecting the drain, followed by a thorough leak test.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this 'beginner' plumbing project truly beginner-friendly, and what's the approximate cost?
Yes, installing a kitchen sink basket strainer is considered one of the most accessible plumbing tasks for DIYers. The main challenge is often working in a confined space under the sink. The cost is generally low, primarily for the new strainer (typically $10-30) and plumber's putty, assuming you have most of the basic tools on hand.
Do I really need all the specific tools listed, like multiple types of pliers, or can I get by with fewer?
While specific tools like tongue-and-groove pliers (e.g., Channellock) and a basin wrench are highly recommended for their grip and leverage, you can often manage with adjustable wrenches and a large pair of standard pliers. A putty knife is essential for applying and cleaning up plumber's putty, and a good flashlight is crucial for visibility in the dark space under the sink.
I've installed the new strainer, but it's leaking around the rim when I test it. What did I do wrong, and how can I fix it?
Leaks around the rim usually indicate an issue with the plumber's putty seal or the tightness of the locknut. Ensure you applied a generous, uniform roll of plumber's putty around the flange before inserting the strainer body, and that the locknut was tightened firmly but not excessively. You'll likely need to disassemble the strainer, remove old putty, reapply fresh putty, and reassemble it carefully, ensuring everything is snug.
Can I use silicone caulk instead of plumber's putty for the seal under the sink flange?
While some plumbers use silicone, plumber's putty is generally recommended for basket strainers due to its pliable nature, which allows for easier adjustments and future removal. Silicone creates a more permanent bond and can make it much harder to remove the strainer later if needed. If using silicone, ensure it's suitable for plumbing and allow adequate cure time before testing.