Begin by preparing your work area. Lay down old towels or rags around the base of the toilet to catch any water spills. Locate the water shutoff valve, typically on the wall behind the toilet, and turn it clockwise to shut off the water supply. Flush the toilet to empty the tank and hold the handle down to drain as much water as possible from the bowl. Use a sponge and bucket, or a shop-vac, to remove the remaining water from both the tank and the bowl. Once empty, use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the water supply line from the fill valve at the bottom of the tank. Next, use a putty knife or flathead screwdriver to pry off the plastic caps covering the bolts at the toilet's base. Use the wrench to remove the nuts from the closet bolts. The toilet is now free and can be carefully lifted straight up and moved out of the way. Place it on the towels you laid down earlier.

With the toilet removed, you will see the old wax ring on the toilet flange. Use a putty knife to scrape all of the old wax off the flange and the surrounding floor. Be thorough to ensure the new ring will seal properly. It's also a good idea to clean the bottom of the toilet horn where it meets the wax ring. Once the wax is removed, stuff a large rag into the drain pipe. This is a crucial step to prevent unpleasant sewer gases from entering your home and to stop tools or debris from falling down the drain. With the area clean, use a flashlight to carefully inspect the existing flange for the exact location and extent of the damage. Also, check the condition of the subfloor around the flange for any signs of water damage, discoloration, or rot.

Position the toilet flange repair ring over the top of the old, broken flange. These rings are designed to fit directly over the existing flange. Rotate the repair ring so that its new closet bolt slots are in a different position from the old, broken ones. This ensures the new bolts will be held by the strong, new ring. Align the ring so that the bolt slots are parallel to the wall behind where the toilet will sit. Using a power drill or a screwdriver, secure the repair ring to the subfloor with the provided stainless steel screws. Ensure you drill into a solid part of the subfloor. If you are drilling into tile, you may need a special masonry bit to create pilot holes first to prevent the tile from cracking. Make sure the ring is screwed down tightly and sits flat and level on the floor.

Take the new closet bolts (toilet bolts) that came with your wax ring kit. Slide the T-shaped head of each bolt into the newly installed repair ring's slots, one on each side. The bolts should slide in and then rotate to lock in place. Position them parallel to the back wall. Now, take the new wax ring. You have two common options for placement: you can either press it firmly onto the toilet flange, centered over the drain opening, or you can press it onto the outlet horn on the bottom of the toilet itself. Placing it on the flange is often easier and less messy. Ensure it creates a good seal with the flange.

CRITICALLY, REMOVE THE RAG FROM THE DRAIN PIPE. Now, carefully lift the toilet and position it over the flange. Align the holes in the base of the toilet with the two new closet bolts sticking up from the floor. Lower the toilet straight down onto the wax ring. Do not slide it around, as this can break the wax seal. Once the toilet is down, press down firmly on the bowl and sit on it, gently rocking side-to-side, to compress the wax ring and create a tight seal. The toilet base should now be resting flat on the floor. Place the plastic washers and then the metal nuts onto the closet bolts. Use your wrench to tighten the nuts, alternating from one side to the other a little at a time to ensure even pressure. Be very careful not to overtighten, as this is the most common way to crack the porcelain toilet base. Tighten just until the toilet is stable and does not wobble. If the bolts are too long, use a mini-hacksaw to cut them down so the plastic bolt caps will fit. Finally, press the bolt caps into place.

With the toilet secured, it's time to restore the water. Reattach the water supply line to the fill valve on the bottom of the toilet tank. Hand-tighten the connector first to prevent cross-threading, then use your adjustable wrench to give it a final quarter-turn to snug it up. Slowly turn the water shutoff valve counter-clockwise to turn the water back on. As the tank fills, use a flashlight to inspect the supply line connection for any drips. Once the tank is full, flush the toilet. Watch carefully around the entire base of the toilet for any signs of water seeping out. Flush it several more times to be certain the wax seal is holding. If there are no leaks at the supply line or the base, the repair is complete.