How to Repair a Broken Toilet Flange with a Repair Ring

Begin by preparing the work area. Lay down old towels or a tarp around the base of the toilet to catch any residual water. Turn off the water supply by rotating the shut-off valve on the wall behind the toilet clockwise. Flush the toilet and hold the handle down to drain as much water as possible from the tank and bowl. Use a sponge and bucket to remove any remaining water from the tank and bowl. Finally, disconnect the water supply line from the bottom of the toilet tank using an adjustable wrench.

With the toilet removed, you will see the old wax ring on the flange. Wearing disposable gloves, use a putty knife to scrape all of the old wax off the flange and the bottom of the toilet's outlet horn. Dispose of the old wax and closet bolts in a trash bag. Thoroughly clean the flange and the surrounding floor area with rags and a household cleaner. Once clean, carefully inspect the flange for cracks or breaks, confirming that the damage is limited to the ring and that a repair ring is the appropriate fix. Stuff a large rag into the drain opening to block sewer gases.

Take the toilet flange repair ring and place it over the top of the broken PVC flange. Rotate the ring until its closet bolt slots are positioned correctly (typically at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions) and do not overlap with the broken sections of the old flange. Use a marker to mark the locations of the screw holes on the floor. Remove the ring and drill pilot holes at your marks. Since the floor is tile, you will need to use a carbide-tipped masonry drill bit. Drill slowly and carefully to avoid cracking the tile. Once the holes are drilled, reposition the repair ring and drive the provided screws through the ring into the subfloor, securing it tightly in place.

Take the new closet bolts and slide them into the slots on the newly installed repair ring, one on each side. Position them parallel to the back wall. Now, take the new wax ring. You can either press it firmly onto the circular outlet horn on the bottom of the toilet or place it directly on the flange, centered over the drain opening. Pressing it onto the toilet first is often recommended as it ensures a good seal on the toilet itself and reduces the risk of it shifting during installation.

IMPORTANT: Remember to remove the rag from the drainpipe. Carefully lift the toilet and position it over the flange, aligning the holes in the toilet base with the closet bolts. Gently lower the toilet into place. Press down on the toilet bowl with firm, even pressure to compress the wax ring. The toilet should sit flat on the floor. Place a plastic washer, then a metal washer, and finally a nut onto each closet bolt. Hand-tighten the nuts first. Then, using a wrench, tighten each nut a little at a time, alternating between sides, until the toilet is snug and does not wobble. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Use a hacksaw to cut off the excess length of the bolts if necessary, then place the plastic caps over them.

Reconnect the water supply line to the fill valve on the bottom of the toilet tank. Hand-tighten the connector first, then give it a final quarter-turn with the wrench to ensure it's snug but not overtightened. Slowly turn the water supply valve back on (counter-clockwise). Check for leaks at the supply line connection and at the base of the toilet. Once the tank is full, flush the toilet several times. After each flush, thoroughly inspect the base of the toilet with a dry paper towel to check for any signs of moisture, which would indicate a failed seal.